Making tongs

[Mr Smith]

I'll just leave this here... -_-

[Frank Turley]

On your first step-down, are you hitting the 12 mm thickness or the 25mm width? The drawings look good, overall. One of our good old smiths, Francis Whitaker, always drilled the pivot holes maintaining that there was less slop that way, when assembled. He also drew his reins on the power hammer rather than welding. To each his own. I lap weld mine, as you have shown. Ref the weld, your reason for making the scarf on the 2nd shoulder (the diagonal one) is given. Furthermore, a forge weld is normally not as strong as the parent stock.The old timey smiths knew that by welding on that side, there was less chance of it cracking or breaking in use.

Many smiths start their flat jawed tongs with square stock rather than flat stock.

[Mr Smith]

Hi Frank.

Thanks for the feedback! Especially the heads up on the weld - I hadn't considered that it may be stronger.

The first step down is done with the flat bar in a vertical position, so that I am striking the 12mm face, rather than the 25mm.

I use flat bar because, if done the way I've indicated, the parts of the pivot will stay flat. Having said that, I used a pair of railway spikes to make a pair of tongs once, and they turned out alright.

[pkrankow]

Drawing out tong reins is easier than welding if the person hasn't become proficient in welding. Drawing out stock is a basic skill, so it is worth practicing, especially for a new smith.

12x25 is pretty heavy stock, very near 1/2x1, this is going to make tongs for larger stock easily able to handle 1 inch (25 mm) material, but not easy to handle small stock, 1/4 or 1/2 inch (6-13 mm) (yes, it can be adjusted) From the point of view of a new smith starting with lighter material may make a better set of tongs for working light practice materials. Having a heavy set of tongs is a great idea, as is having tongs in a range of sizes so you only need to adjust a little to suit different stock sizes.


Thank you for posting a clear set of directions.

Phil

[Ten Hammers]

I watched Frank demo with a True Temper standard stock hardware store "blacksmiths" hammer ( he had tweaked the face a bit). Some will need Ginsu commercial things and some will get by with what they have or make. I have some custom hammers that Junior made for me that I absolutely love. I also have other hammers. Tongs are the same. Starting with square heavier stock is where I'm at for that but once again, Junior makes them from 1/4 x 1 so that option is absolutely in my file of options. YOUR needs are yours and mine are mine. Sometimes they will cross paths as here on the net. I have needs for many types and weights of tongs as well as hammers because that is how I have done things in the past. I DO know that there are a lot of things that I Don't know. :)

[Rangerdave]

good plans. I will try using once my forge is operational. If I would have started with plans rather than just winging it and not really knowing where I was going my 1st would have been better I think. I sure love this site. I need to do more of the thinking and less of the winging it. But sometime (inexperience probably) you (I) just wanna hammer it out and although fun probably not the best idea. Mental note made. A change in thought process is in order.
Thanks to the site.....
RD

[Francis Trez Cole]

Rangerdave don't over think it. It will take you longer to learn hammering than thinking. Make 10 of each and then you will be good at it. There are many videos on youtube on tong making Mrsmith method is sound. Once you learn good hammer control than hammering out the reins dose not take that long. or if you have a power hammer. but forge welding is and important skill to learn so try both methods find which works for you. As you grow you will shift methods. Bill Epps welds the reins on first with an electric welder than forge welds them. I can forge weld and I have a power hammer so I draw them out its faster for me.