Rangerdave

Haven't sharpened it yet. I hope it will hold the edge will but not be too hard to sharpen. I'm stuck with the temper now that I have the handle on it. Hopefully it will be ok. Thanks RD

I decided to make the knife and practice grinding while doing so. I am learning it is not so easy and you will make mistakes however if you continue to try you will start getting better. I am a long way from where I want to be but a fair distance from where I started. This is brass guard and butt plate silver soldered, spacer material and an Ostrich leg bone as the main handle, held with epoxy. The metal is a leaf spring hammered down then heat treated (1650 for 20 minutes quenched in olive oil, tempered at 350 for 2 hours once.) Used stock removal, hollow ground with 8 inch wheel. I hop this is set right for the pic. thanks RD

Very nice. I also like that brass work, as well as overall knife.

Has anyone seen this in action? I am looking for an oven instead of the gas forge to get a more consistent temp for heat treating. Saw this and thought price is good but is it good? thought maybe someone has heard of it. http://www.sugarcreekind.com/kilns-knife-kilns-c-273_312.html Thanks RD

I cut the blade out then heated and bent handle on the anvil. I'm not a paracord superfan myself. That said some do like it and want them. Thanks for replies. RD

9.5 inches, 1085, hollow grind, heat treated at 1650 and tempered at 300 twice for an hour. para cord wrap handle.

Thanks. I am still trying to use the belt grinder instead of having to hand sanding so much. Just not there yet. I know Rich I need to practice on mild but all I have is 1085 and spring steel so I am practicing with knives. If they come out good they go to friends and family if not they belong to me. One day maybe they will look as good as yours. The last few you posted were awesome. RD

Steel used 1085. Heat treated per 1085 specs, tempered twice @375. Handle is diamond wood, bronze pins. Flat ground on my craftsman 4x48. Did quite a bit of hand sanding then buffed. I think it's the best one I have done to this point. Still not perfect but getting better. Thanks RD

I made a mickey mouse sheath for this a while back. My buddy liked the knife so much he wanted one. I made him one and he made me this sheath. It is very nice I think. Thought I'd share the pics. Thanks RD

point taken. Thanks RD

I appreciate your post Rich. Practice does make perfect however... If you are going to use resources ie. belts files etc... why not use blade steel? Yes some may not turn out but lightning may actually strike and call it luck or whatever you may make a good one. If I am practicing I am using 10xx. Even if it isn't perfect I still am learning and it will still be a knife. Practicing on mild steel doesn't give you a knife it gives you a knife shape piece of mild steel right? If this is wrong then such is me. I often seem to row the boat backwards. Thanks RD

Thanks, I think I may have already passed the point of no return on rushing it. I will try the hand file and see where it takes me. It may just end up a not so centered attempt. And I will not rush it on #2. I didn't really like the shape all that much. Maybe I will make it a letter opener for a family member. They are always forgiving right? Thanks again. RD

Is there a trick or easier way than guessing for a double sided flat grind? I am trying to make a smaller dagger/ boot knife. Its my first double sided flat grind and I can't seem to get the line centered. I am using 2 pieces of angle iron butted together as a jig to hold the blade, but can't get center to the blade edge on either side centered. I put a sharpie line down the middle of the blade trying to maintain the center. I am also using a craftsman 2 x 42 belt grinder. That may be one of the issues. It don't think it is designed to grind blades, but it does work just maybe not the best for the task. Hope to one day get a better one but for now it has to do. Maybe it's just practice and patience but I thought I would ask the more knowledgeable. Maybe flat grinding is not the way to go??? Thanks RD

Nice pattern. What did you etch with? I thought 5160 and 1080 wouldn't show a good contrast, but I guess I read it wrong. I will have to try. I have some 5160 and 1085. Maybe this weekend if the weather holds I can fire up the dragon and see if I can weld them also. I have been just trying to make knives out of 1 steel hoping to get better before I do patterns, but want to do pattern welding for sure. Just afraid I will get a good pattern then screw it up trying to make the knife. LOL Great looking blade. RD

Over all it's 9 inches give or take a 32nd or so. I don't have a ruler that is that detailed so we will say 9. Blade is 4 3/4 handle is 4 1/4. Its 5/32 and the belly is 1 1/4. Will have to get wife's camera or get new batteries for the house one. What angle do you want to see it from Rob? I am actually making this for a welder guy who is welding me a press. I think he will be happy... and as long as the press works so will I. Thanks RD

I used coco bolo dymondwood for the handle. I used epoxy and 1/8" bronze braising rod for pins. still have some sanding and shaping but it is coming along. The blade is a leaf spring. Heat treated per the forum knowledge... Thank you to all that put out the info. I didn't use spacer material wish I would have, but the epoxy dried grey so it looks like I used grey spacers sort of. Let me know what you think, likes and dislikes. This will be #3 for me. First 2 were wrapped handles. Thanks RD

Now I know. Thanks Thomas.

All from leaf spring. I screwed up the bottom one on the quench. Warped then like a dummy I cracked it. Gonna try and fix it. On another note.... Can someone tell me the benefit of using stabilized wood for handles? I understand what it is but not sure why or if it is essential in a knife scale for a handle. Thanks RD

My first gut hook skinner. Made from a leaf spring. It started smooth/shiny after grind, but I guess the scale caused this antique kind of effect. I decided I like it and am going to leave it this way.

Very nice. Like the pattern and handle.

Fantastic!

the wife got me an ABANA subscription, the complete bladesmith and a new drill press..... How cool is that. The complete bladesmith is a fantastic book. I think it is a lot better than the 50$ knife shop. Although the knifeshop has good ideas the other is way more detailed IMO. Hope everyone had a good one too. RD

Very nice. I really like the handle too. I wish the posting pics worked for me as I have my first knife I would like feedback on but it's no where close to yours. Merry Christmas. RD

I wasn't clear with my post. I think the better question is to what degree do you finish (grit size) before heat treat?

When sanding blade for finish, do you sand then heat treat or vise versa. I tried hand sanding prior to heat treat and am getting no where fast. Then took the suggestion of a friend to use an orbital sander...... way bad idea. I severely messed up what I had already done. May have screwed the whole knife up as I had to put it back in the jig I made and that is extremely hard to get it back exactly where it was in the jig initially. It also thinned the blade more than I wanted. It will probably crack when heat treated now (I hope not). RD