Jura T Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Today one of the first things I planned to do at the shop was to punch an eye to a tool with my power hammer (40 years old russian air hammer). I already had my foot on the treadle, but I wanted to start with a good single blow. So I raised my foot and stepped on the treadle again, that sent the the ram right up and there it stayed. I noticed the other of the guides (I'm not quite sure if they are called guides) was hanging slightly low (see the first picture). So I took the top cover of and jacked the tup up with a bottle jack. There are two bolts holding a guide. It seems that the upper bolt had freed itself and the piston hit it on the way down. I can feel that the bolt is loose and one side of it has a bent on it. I guess that I have to take the lower part of the cylinder off to access the nut... Now that I'm disassembling cylinder+piston part I have two questions. First of I noticed that the piston rings are placed so that they all have the open part in the same place. Is there a reason for that, or should I rotate them into different positions? Now is also a good time to check the clearence between the tup and the guides. So, what is correct clearance for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 The rings are often set so that the end are not in line with the air ports, as they can snag. Clearances are very small between the guide blocks and ram, 0.002 - 0.004" is ideal for a new one, realistically your ram will have worn and will be a smidge bigger at the die block end, so aim for next to no clearance there, and it will be 'good as it can be' in the working section (or re-grind the flats on the ram true). Put some jointing paste behind the guide blocks as they can loose a suprising amount of air down the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Joining paste John? What might that be? Like silicone calking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Pipe dope or something similar that is non drying more likely, silicone would be about impossible to get apart later on a large surface area like that. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jura T Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 Thanks John. I removed the nuts holding the bottom sleeve. The sleeve seems to sit in really tight. When I look into the air chamber form the top there is a ledge (which I assume is part of the bottom sleeve?) and on the side of it there is an air port. When feeling the surfaces (rough cast surfaces) inside the air port, I cannot feel any seam between the sleeve and the frame, so there probably is a very tight fit. I guess I have to build some sort of frame on top of the cylinder to jack the sleeve out. Any ideas for that? Put some jointing paste behind the guide blocks as they can loose a suprising amount of air down the back. I don't know what jointing paste/pipe dope is, so could someone give a product name for a global brand (Sikaflex for example)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Pipe dope is what plumbers/pipefitters use to join threaded pipe fittings together. Be sure to get a non hardening type. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Stick a 2 X 4 down from the top and hit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jura T Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 Stick a 2 X 4 down from the top and hit it. I already tried that. Although I didn't go full force, as I wasn't quite sure if the ledge was part of the frame or the sleeve. After seeing some Anyang cross-section pictures, I'm pretty sure that it is part of the sleeve. I'll hit harder tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Put a couple of the nuts back on very loose so the gland doesnt hit the floor when it frees up, then wail on it with a piece of 2x4 as advised! the gasket will be holding it in place, and will most likely tear when the box comes loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jura T Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 It is getting late here, but I couldn't wait until tomorrow. So I took a piece of 2x4 hit the ledge with it as hard I could. That helped, the box came loose (and the gasket stayed in good shape). The loose bolt is bent quite a bit. If I heat and straighten it, does it need to be heat treated? Or should I make a new one? The head might be a bit of an challenge as I don't have a metal lathe. The angle on the head is about 40 degrees. The guide block seems to be seated/shimmed with some hard black stuff. I guess I need to scrape that of and get some shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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