Adirondacker Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I found yesterday a Champion forge with blower, although one leg is broken it can be repaired, upon cleaning and looking over I found writing on bottom of forge pan (cast iron) it says and I quote "before using clay forge." I can see no other markings to suggest how thick the clay should be? I assume fire clay would work? There was an anvil and a few tools along with some old iron that I purchased. Ant help on claying a forge pan would be helpful, haven't had a chance to look over anvil yet Adirondacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Pictures, man. Pictures. We'd like to help you admire your newly found kit. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Oh yeah, we all got to have pictures you know! A mixture of fire clay and sand would work well for that. The sand helps to temper the clay and helps control the shrinkage as it drys. As to how thick my guess would be about 2" or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 I've talked about my method of claying a forge a number of times but what the hey. Use about one part sand or crushed fire brick grog per four parts clay, fire clay is good but not necessary. Add only enough water it clumps hard in your hand when squeezed without sticking. If it sticks add more dry material, a little at a time. It should break cleanly without crumbling, if it crumbles it needs a little LITTLE more water, add it a just a bit at a time till it passes the above mentioned tests. This is the same method as seeing if casting sand is right for green sand casting. Once the clay is right ram it into the forge pan with a wood mallet, B'ball bat end, 2x4, etc. Even a hammer head woeks just don't take a sledge to it okay? Once the clay is hard enough to bounce the mallet use a steel rule, hacksaw blade, piece of thin wood, etc. to "strike" the surface smooth and to shape. Then if you burnish it with a piece of burlap till it's really smooth less hot stuff will stick when a fire's going. Now the secret, make sure it's dry, Really DRY, hang a light bulb over it if you live in a humid place. Then it's time to cure it ith fire, start a small fire across the whole pan and let it burn down and cool, then make a little larger fire and repeat. Firing the pan is the PERFECT place for a layer of Kingsford briquettes. That should do the job, fire it up and put it to work. Just be aware this isn't the only way to do this, just packing the pan with dirt, damp is best, will do fine, it's just messy and will get on the work. It works just fine though. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 "Dirt" you say? I've used that. There are many kinds of dirt. Sand, loam, clay (and others) and combinations. Dirt with a little clay in it is best. When damp, you should be able to squeeze it into a lump that holds together. Cooks up prteey decent too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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