July 27, 201114 yr Poundhound, What I did after flattening the head for a base, was to make a diagonal cut just above the head (now base) angling up on about a 45º. This gives you a "foot rest" at the bottom of the cross. Then take a heat and bend it backwards to facilitate the cut up towards the cross. This is the leg that gets cut short. After all cuts, reheat and bend back straight again. Clear as mud??? Mark <>< Your explanation makes perfect sense. From looking at your cross I though you might have angle cut in then flattened out the lower cut (one which make the top of the cross), so I totally understand your method. I may try the angle cut first to see if I can avoid firing up the forge, then making the other cuts then back to the forge. PoundHound
July 27, 201114 yr I just found out you can make some nice bottle openers made from them as well! like this PoundHound
July 28, 201114 yr Poundhound, What I did after flattening the head for a base, was to make a diagonal cut just above the head (now base) angling up on about a 45º. This gives you a "foot rest" at the bottom of the cross. Then take a heat and bend it backwards to facilitate the cut up towards the cross. This is the leg that gets cut short. After all cuts, reheat and bend back straight again. Clear as mud??? Mark <>< here are some pictures of the spike I have ready for the forge shown are the spike from the side, the front and then in an oblique view. the side arms should be about 2 inches when done, the top part about 1.5 inches and from the bottom to the bottom of the side arms about 4 inches when complete PoundHound
July 28, 201114 yr here is the forged but unfinished cross I came up with from a railroad spike, not too bad for first attempt I used the peen of the hammer to get the wood effect. PoundHound
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