rook325 Posted July 25, 2011 Posted July 25, 2011 So, I was barn looking the other day, found a tool steel scissor jack bar. 2 sections, I want to make a spring fuller out of them, is 3/8 big enough? Also, I bought some mild grade 1/2 round stock and want to make some bolt head tongs, unfortunatly, all the plans I find are for making with 1'' by 1/4'' flat, is there an easier way so I am not out there pounding away trying to achieve them. Keep in mind I am a directions junkie. Quote
Sam Thompson Posted July 25, 2011 Posted July 25, 2011 You could make some small tongs from 1/2" round but you'd need to jump up the hinge area first. Smithing is all about X-section ares (and hence volume); the area of 1/2" dia is 1/4X1/4X3.14=0.196sqin, the area of 1/4X1 is 0.25. Quote
ironsmith Posted July 25, 2011 Posted July 25, 2011 check out bill epps how to on anvilfire.com its labeled as tongs, he shows how to do it with round bar.... Quote
Marksnagel Posted July 25, 2011 Posted July 25, 2011 I have made spring fullers out of 3/8ths and 1/2 in. Both serve me well for their purpose. Mark <>< Quote
rook325 Posted July 25, 2011 Author Posted July 25, 2011 Thanks guys, I am new to this. Got the old brake drum forge and using my dads old channel locks to hold material, keeps his spirit with me, but I am scared Im gonna mess them up. I really enjoy seeing everyones projects on here. Maybe I'll be 1/10th as good as you guys one day. Quote
pkrankow Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 Find Brian Brazeal's videos. He starts with round. Phil Quote
Frank Turley Posted July 26, 2011 Posted July 26, 2011 In studying many old bolt tongs, I see that most of them are made of flat stock. If you blank out a flat tong jaw, not a bolt jaw, as Brazeal showed, it has three shoulders. The second shoulder formed is normally diagonal and is at the base of the jaw, It allows clearance for the opposing rivet boss to rotate. This is not needed on bolt tongs, because the jaws are way out in front of the circular rivet bosses. When assembled, it is just boss against boss, no diagonal shoulder needed. I think that with 1/2" round, you could flatten the boss area maybe 2" tp 2½" back from the end. Shoulder fore and aft on opposite sides, on edge, leaving your boss between the two shoulders. Forge behind the boss leading into a scarf for a 3/8" round rein lap weld. Forge in front of the boss to maybe 3.8" square, leading to an upset thickening on the end. The upset on the end can be squared up and partially hot split lengthwise. The hot split is opened up with a heavy square bar to a Vee. A vee jaw is more versitile than a half round. Curve the 3/8" square into a semi-circle bending away from the shouldered boss. The shoulder will disappear. Straighten the jaw. After they are riveted together, do further shaping to fit a specific cross section. Since you don't have much of a boss by flattening 1/2" round, you could make a small slit chised and drift the hole, thereby expanding the boss. A 1/4" or 5/16" rivet should do the job on a small pair of bolt tongs.http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote
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