Cody Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I just picked up a 25# LG with the #2850. Anyone have one of those books that says what year it is? It don't have a gaurd on the spring, so I'm going to make one. I have a sheet that show the oil locations. I have been using bar and chain oil. I have a bottom drawing die and a bottom flat die and a top flat. Those are quite new ('03 I think). and there was an old but nice bottom drawing die that is only 2 1/4" tall. From what I have read that is getting to short to use. Can I just reset the distants or use it for thicker stock?It looks like the dies are suppossed to be 1" apart when the head is at its lowest position. Is that right? I was set more than that when I got it. You adjust that by loosening the nut and sliding the bronze pitman down? The other thing is the tension on the spring. It seem tight, but I don't know how tight or how toght it should be. Is there a book out there on LG, like an owners manual? Does Sid mind these kind of questions? Thanks for any help. I kinda got in over my head :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 1920 is the year it was made. Die opening needs to be about 3/4 inch more than the stock thickness. Start with the spring adjusted so the toggle bolts are about level. The ram should move easy by hand when you try to move it up and down. The drawing die is pretty short but it may work for larger stock. Make sure the toggle bolts don't hit the wrap around guide adjusting the pitman really won't fix that problem. If you are not sure if it is hitting wrap some tape around the toggle bolts, run the hammer with something thin between the dies, shut it off take a look to see if the tape has a hole where it hit the guard. If it does you will need a taller die stack. Die stack = lower die + upper die + stock thickness. What ever you do don't cut the edge of the guide away to get clearence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I'm thinking bar and chain oil is a bad idea. You want an oil that will flow readily to where ever it needs to go, not sticky oil specificaly designed not to flow. I could be wrong, but check into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Cool I don't have much info, but the couple of pages I do have says "Either chain saw bar and chain oil or Little Giant Lub. oil are recommended; any high quaility chassis grease will work." I think that it will run to where it needs to but it won't fling off, but I could be wrong also Cool to find out when it was made, and in my home state! I had read that the dies should be about 1" apart, but now I see that that depends on the thickness of the stock. How much range to they have without readjusting then? If you are drawing alot do you just split the difference? The toggle bolts are about straight in line with each other, but they tilt with the right side being lower. It looks like that is cause by the one "eye" is centered on the bolt and the other is under the bolt. Does that make sence? is that normal? Thanks for all the info......Keep it comming please! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I use bar/chain oil for mine and grease where needed. In my blowers I use a mix of b/c oil and 30wt. You are correct about it not slinging off as bad with the b/c oil and Sid does recommend. If Phil Cox (aka= peacock) tells you to stand on your head while lubing your hammer then you need to stand on your head. Phil is one of the most knowledgable guys around when it comes to power hammers, you will do well to heed his advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Just Google Little Giant and Sid's site will come up. He will answer emails,calls,faxes! Great guy.His site will probably have all the information you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I'm pretty sure the sheet you speak of is the one Sid makes available. I agree with this sheet. One thing I would suggest is make sure all the oil holes are open. I have found that many times one or more holes will be pluged. A combination of scale, oil, dirt, and time can cause these holes to plug up so hard you need to drill the crub out of them. Of course you will have to take it apart to do it. Thomas, thanks for the comment, I am really nothing more than storage for the knowledge many others have shared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I stand corrected. Thankyou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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