I recently acquired a cast iron Canedy Otto forge that was cracked and was apparently repaired with JB Weld on the corner where the blower arm attaches. I am concerned that this repair will not be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the blower arm and blower. What can I do to reenforce this repaired corner? Should I have it professionally welded or perhaps bolt a metal strap around that corner? Or should I attach the blower to the opposite corner? Any advice or opinions would be appreciated.

I recently acquired a cast iron Canedy Otto forge that was cracked and was apparently repaired with JB Weld on the corner where the blower arm attaches. I am concerned that this repair will not be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the blower arm and blower. What can I do to reenforce this repaired corner? Should I have it professionally welded or perhaps bolt a metal strap around that corner? Or should I attach the blower to the opposite corner? Any advice or opinions would be appreciated.

I'd strap it from the inside and outside.

Depending on how your blower is configured putting it on the other side may not be an option. I have two Buffalo forge blowers, one that is right hand and one left hand. Putting a strap over the broken part should work fine, just drill some holes for the bolts then bend it to shape and mark the forge to drill it, a couple of 3/8 inch bolts on each side and 2 into the broken piece.

I would weld it. A correct weld repair should hold it just fine. B)

ide take some 1/8 plate and make a plate on the inside that covers all three holes and overlaps the crack an inch or to on the sides drill and bolt thru should work fine ... if you deside to have it welded i would still put the plate in (ive welded cast iron before and it is not as strong after its been welded ) also remember that it broke there cause that is the stress point when running the blower .. so reinforceing it wont hurt... in fact if you want to do a traditional repair clean out the jb weld make the plate heat the whole thing and braze it plate cracks and all ...good luck!

I am with the re-weld camp on this. since it is cast, it will need to be done with a nickle rod, slow and steady. On the other hand I am not to familiar with JB weld. The other and more fun option would be to find a local cast maker and pour a new one using the old one for the mold.

I would weld it. A correct weld repair should hold it just fine.

I would think that by the time all the JB weld was cleaned out, the fit would be bad and that would make a weak weld. I could be wrong.

I would think that by the time all the JB weld was cleaned out, the fit would be bad and that would make a weak weld. I could be wrong.

I would leave it fit up with the JB weld grind one side with a thin cutting wheel or die grinder. Tack that side. Then back grind the other side grind both sufaces and weld it up with nickel rod as mentioned by DennisG. Another way to do this and alot of people don't know this but according to the book "Metals and How To Weld Them" put out by Lincoln Electric, 7018 will work for cast iron no preheat. I have used it in a pinch and it does work.

If you try to weld I would try to get all the epoxy and other junk out. Any metal welds best when it is vary clean, any junk near the weld can melt and suck into the weld and mess up your weld bead.

Some things can be welded rusty any dirty, but not everything. And no one can argue that dirty metal welds better than clean. Clean metal always makes for easier welding!

JBweld will start to break down at about 250F, and smell really bad at about 350F before catching fire. It will extinguish like plastic. You really do want to ultimately remove it before getting it hot.

Leaving the JBweld for tack welding fit-up....your call but have a fan or something running for positive ventilation.

Phil

Welding is a good way to go- the prep will require grinding out to form a v groove
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/welding-cast-iron-detail.aspx
I have also seen repairs in cast iron done with brazing when its done right it is as good as any repair

I recently acquired a cast iron Canedy Otto forge that was cracked and was apparently repaired with JB Weld on the corner where the blower arm attaches. I am concerned that this repair will not be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the blower arm and blower. What can I do to reenforce this repaired corner? Should I have it professionally welded or perhaps bolt a metal strap around that corner? Or should I attach the blower to the opposite corner? Any advice or opinions would be appreciated.

Welding inside and out would be great, but if your not comfortable with doing that a plate for reinforcement on the inside would be sufficient.
Changing the subject a little. How did you identify this as a Canedy Otto forge? I have recently acquired one just like it, but mine has no makers marks or numbers on the forge or blower.
Have a great day an enjoy that forge.
Thanks Charles

ide take some 1/8 plate and make a plate on the inside that covers all three holes and overlaps the crack an inch or to on the sides drill and bolt thru should work fine ... if you deside to have it welded i would still put the plate in (ive welded cast iron before and it is not as strong after its been welded ) also remember that it broke there cause that is the stress point when running the blower .. so reinforceing it wont hurt... in fact if you want to do a traditional repair clean out the jb weld make the plate heat the whole thing and braze it plate cracks and all ...good luck!

I agree with you on this and add that the blower should be free standing so as avoid putting stress on this weak point or on any other part of the forge.

Thank you for all of the replies and suggestions. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, but these posts give me some ideas about different options. I appreciate the help.

77 iron: This forge is marked with "Canedy Otto Mtg Co Chicago Heights, Ill" at the opposite end of the crack.

I agree with you on this and add that the blower should be free standing so as avoid putting stress on this weak point or on any other part of the forge.

Alternately, you could construct a mount that attaches to one (or two) of the legs. This would be especially handy if you are looking for portability. One of my forges has a nice free-standing blower, but I eventually bought an old "all-in-one" solely for lugging to demos.