Dave Martin Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 And throwing in a few of yours , I've really enjoyed looking at shop built power hammers the last couple of years. Someone or a group will workout a good concept, prototype, bug it out and those inclined use it that way. Other eccentrics like myself perhaps get as much joy from the design/build as the use of it. The personal variations seem endless. The most practical would be to just save and buy one......no fun in that for me! The concept I'm playing....err working on.... 1) 35# to 50# apallachian guided spring helve 2) using the tire drive clutch idea (been done) 3) Replace the crank drive rod with an air cylinder for lenght adjustment, controllable single stike and some clamping ability. Not quite sure how the air cylinder will act in conjunction with the spring. Seeing a pressure feed to both sides of the piston which can be balanced. Seems endless combinations for action are possible. And if disappointed a drive rod will make a working hammer. Guys like me always have a ton of possible refinements churning in the back of their head....Please feel free to throw yours in or punch holes as much as you like....it's all fun I'm new to digital pictures but will record the build (will even post them if it works!) Thanks for any interest...Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Dave, I built a tire hammer, a year or so ago. All I had for blueprints was a bunch of pictures that I made copies of from a lot of the other hammers that the guys have made. I used ideas from several of them and finally got a workable hammer. Don't know how I got along without it, before. But you're right. It's all fun. Good luck. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I would just suggest you first get it running well with solid rod before you start experimenting. Just give you a baseline to work from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Martin Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 George sounds like we started the same way. Glad it worked out for you. Have fun...Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I'm with you: Ease says buy one! Trash ease! We say make one! Good luck with the build! I can only say what you already know. The helve and the tire drive work! I don't know about the air cylinder though! The theory sounds good! I think I would agree with Grant though. Get it running first and then play with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Martin Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Grant, thanks for the advice it is noted. I posted in case someone had a good idea that worked out for them. Better to find out before sticking things together:) Good thing I don't have an inline 4 hanging around, you had a fun looking idea. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Martin Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Dave from one eccentric to another thanks for the build vote:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masons forge Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I built a hammer with a #110 head and used an air cylinder for the linkage. It was a tire hammer in every other way. We put an air valve or tire stem on each side and used it to control the stroke. I just sold it on Sat. I'll find some pics of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Seems to me that if you're going to go to the trouble of putting an air cylinder in the linkage, you might as well get rid of the tire clutch and just use the cylinder to run the hammer. It'd give you better control overall. Maybe a variation of the New Kinyon style in another thread? Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're going for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Martin Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 I built a hammer with a #110 head and used an air cylinder for the linkage. It was a tire hammer in every other way. We put an air valve or tire stem on each side and used it to control the stroke. I just sold it on Sat. I'll find some pics of it How did the cylinder mod workout? Did you find value in the concept? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Martin Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Seems to me that if you're going to go to the trouble of putting an air cylinder in the linkage, you might as well get rid of the tire clutch and just use the cylinder to run the hammer. It'd give you better control overall. Maybe a variation of the New Kinyon style in another thread? Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're going for. No trouble Stormcrow, Easily done and undone. I wrote a really long post outlining my thought process and deleted it. Realizing it was just repeating considerations that came from others many times. Perhaps a summary of my project....for me would be better? If you decide to do a simular project....for you there may not be one idea from my project that does you any good. If there is more better. Tire hammer...not pnumatic utility or self contained...not hydraulic press...maybe later flypress...probably later factory hammer...who knows down the road Spring helve....yes Possible mods: 1) air cylinder- for those jobs that need many placed controllable single strikes. Perhaps a variable length drive link? Some interesting combinations of push and pull between cylinder and spring affecting striker action may be possible? 2) tire drive?- been done and it works. You know all the benefits. 3) flat belt drive/idler clutch- Great idea, really like this one. Motor drives countershaft for drive speed reduction and flywheel energy storage. Countershaft drives crankshaft for second drive reduction with idler pulley belt clutch engagement. I have made and fit some leather drive belts for other equipment. It would be fun to hide the air cylinder and impress friends with my antiquity Hope this makes my thinking more clear (if that's possible!) Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 If you have the ability to do a flat belt clucth you will be happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Martin Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 8x8x1/4" main column has been standing in place waiting for a decision on drive type....flat belt is Found local usables yard for 600# [email protected]#. Could do a bit better in Phx, not worth 200 mile round trip. I like to throw a little money at the local folks anyway. Thanks for all comments, suppose I'll get to work now......Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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