What steels to use as a raw material

[Tomsdad]

Material to start with,

A couple of questions,

when would you use old leaf springs or other hardened metals For some jobs such as knives but normal S275 - S355 (43A - 50D) for other jobs, will the softer carbon steel grades be easier to work, but only used for decorative work?
Also, what design of forge should I be thinking of, as I dont have the room for a full traditional jobby,
Would clamping on a basic hairdryer really be very effective as a form of air flow?
If I should have filed this post elsewhere, please let me know

Cheers
Dave

[thingmaker3]

Rule of thumb: the lower the carbon, the easier it is to work the steel. Mild steel is fine for a good many working things. Hinges, bottle openers, hasps, fireplace tools, skillets, hooks, coat-racks, lamps, shackles, ice-cream scoops, dice, furniture, gates, fences, spiral staircases, and yes it is also suitable for "decoration" whatever that may be.

You'll want more carbon for anything needing extra toughness, strength, or wear resistance.

Your forge design should be anything that won't burn or melt, and will get enough of your steel or iron or bronze or aluminum or whatever hot enough to do whatever it is you want to do. A hair dryer will be more than enough for some things (knives, forks, trammels) and not nearly enough for others (too small for making your own anvil, for example). For some work, a couple fire-bricks and a propane torch are enough.

I'm not sure I know what a "traditional" setup is. I don't think there is any such animal. My history books (tiny though the collection may be) show a plethora of different setups. Folk in the Congo had different traditions than those in Korea or Finland. All could make big swords with small fires & tiny anvils.

I started in an 8' x 8' corner of my garage. Other smiths have started with a quarter as much area.

[CurlyGeorge]

Dave, we don't know where you are located. So we don't know the weather there. If it's decent weather, make a portable forge that can be set up in the driveway and when done put back in a corner of the shop. To start out forging, until you get some experience under your belt, work with mild steel. It is a lot more forgiving and just easier to work with. BTW, welcome to IFI. :D

[Jeff Seelye]

Material to start with,

A couple of questions,

when would you use old leaf springs or other hardened metals For some jobs such as knives but normal S275 - S355 (43A - 50D) for other jobs, will the softer carbon steel grades be easier to work, but only used for decorative work?
Also, what design of forge should I be thinking of, as I dont have the room for a full traditional jobby,
Would clamping on a basic hairdryer really be very effective as a form of air flow?
If I should have filed this post elsewhere, please let me know

Cheers
Dave

Welcome! Start simple, that includes your forge, your steel and your whole smithy. Before you work with springs, learn about carbon content and it's effect on steel. Stick with mild/low carbon until then. You will appreciate the learning curve and make a lot less mistakes. You will begin to see what tools you need as you work. If their is a local group where you live, join it, get involved and watch closely. This forum is great but their is nothing that beats watching and pounding on steel to teach you.

[Tomsdad]

Thanks for all the replies,
I live in west Cumbria in the lake district UK
When I said traditional forge, I meant the large hooded job with the twere pointing towards the front horizontally . I have seen photographs of water cooled twere,s - would this ever be necessary ?

[billd]

Dave;

Use any steel you can find or buy. Heat it with any of the easy to make forges that are described on this site. Then hit it with a hammer on any kind of heavy chunk of metal. After that if you enjoy what happens you will want to try it some more and revise and improve your forge and anvil and other tools. At this time don't worry about a "traditional" forge or anvil. You will know better what you want and how to make or buy it as you get some experience. If there is any place near you to take a class or visit a smith I would highly recommend it. Be safe and get started! On one post or another on this site I have learned that almost everything I have done up to now is wrong. The anvil I bought should be used as a boat anchor. I'm still using it and it's fine for me right now. The blower I'm using does not supply enough air at a high enough pressure. I'm still using it and it's fine for me right now. And of course I should be using "smiths" coal. But I'm still using my free supply of Anthracite and it's fine for me right now.
Main thing is get started and see if you like it. There is so much to the field you don't know where you might end up.

Bill

[John B]

Thanks for all the replies,
I live in west Cumbria in the lake district UK
When I said traditional forge, I meant the large hooded job with the twere pointing towards the front horizontally . I have seen photographs of water cooled twere,s - would this ever be necessary ?

Hi Tomsdad, I am a Tom's son but not one of yours I don't think, and am at the other end of the country anyway.

No you don't need a large hooded job although with a horizontal tuyere water cooling, if using coke, is essential if you want it to last.

A lot of our students and members ( www.blacksmithsguild.com )make their own bottom blown forges and these are more than adequate for your requirements.
If you pm me your contact address, I will send some plans that we have to make your own bottom blast forge back to you as an attachment.

Good luck in your endeavours

[thingmaker3]

A water-cooled tuyere is handy in an industrial size forge. No need for water cooling in a smaller forge. Many hobbyists work in old rivet forges, which are not water cooled. Others make small forges from brake drums or wash tubs.

In chapter 9 of Smith's Work Paul Hasluck describes a small forge one can make for themselves.

Have you attempted to contact anyone in the British Artist Blacksmiths Association?