Steps to Forge welding

[Playinwitmetal]

Hi, sorry about having to create this topic, but I'm struggling with forge welding. I have a friend that been blacksmithing for a while, but he can't really help me with this because he himself hasn't really done any forge welding. Can someone give be detailed instruction on how to heat the metal, when to apply borax and how to beat the metal? I've tried a few times myself but I haven't gotten it right yet. I've heated a metal bar to orange,bent it to 90 degrees, applied borax, reheated it, then I've closed the bend. I would beat the metal, reheat/reflux and continued this cycle about 8-9 times with no results. What am I doing wrong?

[Larry H]

If the metal is thick the ends should be upset to be thicker than the web, then form the scarf to look like a flattened pyramid, heat to bright orange, apply borax, return to CLEAN fire heat until yellow ( I know some will disagree with this next step ) may-be see some light sparks like grinding sparks, pull from fire start with light taps getting harder. On 3/4 sq, strike 3-5 times return to fire to finish weld on opposite side. I hope this helps.

[maddog]

Forge welding is done from light yellow to white hot. You don't say whether you are using coal or gas. The fire management is important and different with each. The borax goes on at about orange hot. The weld area should be clean but does not have to be free of scale. The mating surfaces should be convex. The pieces are welded with light taps not heavy blows. Larger stock is easier to weld than small stuff because it holds the heat longer. The weld you described, called a faggot weld, is an easy one to do but not a good one to start with because it's harder to know when the weld is sticking or just held in place by the bend.

Try putting two pieces of, say 1/2" round side by side in the forge. Flux at orange. Heat to yellow/white and touch them together. When they are ready to weld you will feel them stick. Give them a another minute and push them up against each other, perhaps squeeze them together with tongs. If they hold, pull them out and see if you can complete the weld.

[Playinwitmetal]

thanks for the help. I will try it out asap. As far coal goes I'm using wood coal, I've reached white hot temperatures, but it eats the coal so fast...

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

If your fuel is limited you might be letting it burn hollow or trying to use too shallow of a fire. With charcoal, you need at least 6" of good fuel below your material.

[Playinwitmetal]

Thanks for the tip, I'll be more cautious with the amount of fuel I'm using.

[dbrandow]

Oxygen is the enemy. Make sure you put your steel in the middle of your fire, vertically and horizontally. Too low and you'll be too close to the air, too high and it won't be hot enough. Make sure your fuel is above the metal so that no air from above gets at the metal. Ideally you just want a small hole for visibility so that you can see the metal change colours.

Don't try to bring the metal to temperature too quickly. Sparks are one indication that its ready but a better one, in my amateur opinion, one thats less likely to mean its too hot, is that the surface of the metal turns a consistent liquid, which will happen just before you get sparks. Don't get caught staring at the metal for too long, however, without good eye protection, IR and UV.

[basher]

what material are you trying to weld ?
the techniques for welding wrought iron , mild steel and carbon steel all differ slightly .
I would advise finding someone to show you as forge welding is one of those things that is much easier to learn from example and hbard to describe .

[Larry H]

here are some examples of forge welds. The round stock ring is 7/8 steel the pear shape is 7/16 The sq stock is 3/4 wrought iron,... notice the center of the sq stockit was only heated and welded only one time,... it was left to show how the weld is after one heat. Also notice the piece was not upset enough,... if the weld was completed the material would thin out and be an unsuccessful job for that reason,.. the piece is supposed to be uniform in size upon completion . the pear is on the way to being correct. I put the 2-1/2 pound hammer there for size. The round ring is 4-1/2 " O.D. the wrought iron is 7" I.D. the pear is 4' I.D.