Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Fixing my knife...


Rick Barter

Recommended Posts

Well, I have a Kershaw knife. I bought it about 4 years ago and it's like a part of me (except in the airport...they're so touchy). However, one day I dropped it on a hard tile floor and the point was broke off.

I put it on a grinder to try and re-point it. I did okay, but slipped on the grinder and took a hunk out of the blade. How can I repair this properly? I guess you need to use a slow-speed grinder for knife work?

Any help is appreciated. I'm trying to get a picture, but I can't find the batteries for the digital camera :?

rvb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, like a flat sharpening oilstone - maybe a medium grit. Put the stone in a vise at a comfortable height (about elbow), oil, press flat on the existing planes of the blades and hone the flats. You are trying to preserve the factory angles but hone enough away to get rid of the damage. Don't worry about sharpening the edge at this point, just get the lines back to normal, then sharpen the edge.

Everybody has their own technique for sharpening but I butcher a lot of game and cut meat so I sharpen as follows: Hone on a fine oilstone at about 10 degrees on each side until I get a "wire edge", which is the metal thinned down to the thickness of foil. This will usually be evident only on one side of the blade. I then put it on a good kitchen steel to get rid of the burr and finally put it on a good leather barber's strop. When the knife stops cutting to my satisfaction, I put it on the steel again for a few swipes. I can sharpen a knife to a very fine edge in less than five minutes using this method.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the blade isn't too hard, I've had pretty good luck with using a file to reshape the edge. I'd clamp the blade in the vice, using a wooden block on each side to protect the polish, and ( I know this goes way against the grain ) file the "sharp"edge down to where I have a smooth surface all the way up to the tip. Then if you can angle the vice some, or clamp the blade in sideways ( still between the wooden blocks ) then you can start working on sharpening the edge. I would try to match the angle of the rest of the blade, at least untill I started getting the wire edge thet HW talked about, and finnish the edge with a set of triangular ceramic sticks. I prefer the ceramic sticks to the flat stones simply because I find it easier to judge the angle they meet the edge and am more consistant than I am with a flat whet stone.
This is just how I'd do it, take it for what it's worth ! ( grin )

Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is difficult to see if that is a hollow ground blade or not, If it is useing a stone will not work real well. Try another method..take a popsicle stick and use it to push down lightly on wet or dry sandpaper,,you can get it at auto parts stores or home improvement centers. I would start with 120 grit,,,moisten with water as you sand lengthways down the blade,,,,do a little and look a lot in good light. When it looks as if you have an even finish go to a 220 grit. Next a 320 then a 400 last and 600 and you should see a big improvement. When the surface finish is what you like, sharpen with a stone...This will wrok if the blade is flat ground or hollow ground as the stick will countour itself as you work,,,keep it wet....Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rich,

hollow-ground blade meaning the i gouged it? because that's what i did with the grinder...i just took a big scallop out of it. i guess 'big' is a relative term. but, it looks like crap.

after i get it fixed, is there any way to get it nice and black like it was before all this mess?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RICK every thing thing that RICH says is right.

If I were fixing the point. GRIN... I would use the the stick and make sure all the stokes went from back to the front of the knife blade. You might get along using the ball of your finger.

Use the flat of the stick and one thickness of 600 girt or so paper to dress the top edge back down.

You are not going to be able to get the factory finish. If you have some lemon juice or vinegar to soak it in. Keep looking at it and quit when you are close enough to suit you. Wash real good and then oil with gun oil or three-in-one. You might be able to get close with BIRCH-WOOD CASEY BROWNING FLUID. From WALLY WORLD.GRIN

If you happen to know a knifemaker in your area, it would help for him to coach you a little. :wink:

Sandpile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...