pkrankow Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 Hi, I have an old Dayton 100A 220V AC only buzz box. It has taps that the leads plug into, 3 for amps, 2 for high/low. I was welding quite nicely about a month ago, and have not had time for practice or anything to work on so it has sat in the garage. My garage is weather tight, but not climate controlled, so this last month it has been near 100% humidity and rather warm. I set up my machine and prepared my work. I was trying to weld a cast iron pump handle with some nickle rod. The rod is 3/32, Lincoln softweld 55. I get nothing but disappointment. The machine does not buzz any different and I get no spark. Nothing. I change taps, I started on 60A, high. II try 45A low, 100A high, and 80A high. Still nothing. I scrubbed the stinger out with a wire brush till it looked bronze colored inside. I took a file and wire brush to the pump handle where the ground clamp was, I put a copper wire pad under the ground clamp even. Now I had a weak spark at 100A high. The buzz of the machine still did not change any. I grabbed a 1/16 6013 rod, and got not enough fire to do anything. I grabbed a 1/8 6013 rod and the buzz of the machine changed some at least. Still insufficient fire. I then scrubbed the taps on the ends of the leads, and grabbed the brass bore brush and scrubbed the tap holes. I did not get a drill to really spin them clean though. More spark, still couldn't weld. For grins I tried welding on the GROUND CLAMP (I bought a replacement and haven't installed it yet) and no improvement. Since I wasn't welding, I put the machine away. Besides getting on the taps with a drill and the bore brush, and maybe some metal polish, where else should I be going? I have been meaning to take the machine apart, clean prime and paint the case (it is ugly with surface rust) and replace the power cord entirely (the power cord is not damaged, just not long enough) Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 I would check your imput power and contections. All they way from your electrical box, cord, female plug, male plug, the cord into the power source and internal conections. From the sound of it you may have one leg not connected. It might be as simple as a lose or corroded wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 I would check your imput power and contections. All they way from your electrical box, cord, female plug, male plug, the cord into the power source and internal conections. From the sound of it you may have one leg not connected. It might be as simple as a lose or coroaded wire. Well, I think it is 4 bolts and 2 screws to get the case off the machine, so I guess I go inside. The cord has a new plug end on it. I will check for 220 with a meter at the plug. I might as well paint the case while it is off too. Thanks Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 I have fixed more electrical things in a shop with an air hose that just about any other tool. Dust and dirt often cause problems with electrical tools. If there is an adjustment for the amount of power output, I would try running it all the way up and all the way down a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 Good call HWHII, I pulled the cord out of the box (was easier to get to than I thought, but was really well fastened overall) and the red lead is in less than wonderful shape. Not only did the insulation fall off when I got in there, it is poorly crimped into its lug AND the screw it is on is loose! Gonna be a few days till I can try it. A few more if I take it all the way down and paint. JNewman, On other boxes I would have tried that, this one has taps, you pull the plug and move it to another position. I did get in with a bore brush to clean the holes. I am going to get my flitz out and put some metal polish on before I am done. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Good call HWHII, I pulled the cord out of the box (was easier to get to than I thought, but was really well fastened overall) and the red lead is in less than wonderful shape. Not only did the insulation fall off when I got in there, it is poorly crimped into its lug AND the screw it is on is loose! Gonna be a few days till I can try it. A few more if I take it all the way down and paint. JNewman, On other boxes I would have tried that, this one has taps, you pull the plug and move it to another position. I did get in with a bore brush to clean the holes. I am going to get my flitz out and put some metal polish on before I am done. Phil AllRight! Hope it takes care of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Box is painted and drying. It is now Oliver green. The guts are on my workbench so I could paint the inside. I painted the iron of the transformer with rust converter. I decided to buy new leads...the gentleman at the welding store said mine were worth their weight in copper at least. I had 10ft leads, and bought 30ft of wire. Would you a) have a 15 ft ground and a 15 ft stinger. (my original thought) b ) have a 10 ft ground and a 20 ft stinger c) some other arrangement and why. I also found that I had an appropriate cord for 30 amp service, it is white and 20 ft long. I guess it will look dirty in a week or so. Much better than the 4 ft cord that was on it. All I need is to find that pesky step drill and install the new strain relief. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 Box is painted and drying. It is now Oliver green. The guts are on my workbench so I could paint the inside. I painted the iron of the transformer with rust converter. I decided to buy new leads...the gentleman at the welding store said mine were worth their weight in copper at least. I had 10ft leads, and bought 30ft of wire. Would you a) have a 15 ft ground and a 15 ft stinger. (my original thought) b ) have a 10 ft ground and a 20 ft stinger c) some other arrangement and why. I also found that I had an appropriate cord for 30 amp service, it is white and 20 ft long. I guess it will look dirty in a week or so. Much better than the 4 ft cord that was on it. All I need is to find that pesky step drill and install the new strain relief. Phil I would stay with your first choice. In my experiences your ground always has to reach your work unless you are always working on a table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 I would stay with your first choice. In my experiences your ground always has to reach your work unless you are always working on a table. Glad my first choice was good. I hope to test as soon as I get my girl to take her nap. I am just going to use the old leads to test, then make the new ones up. I need to take an "after" picture because this welder looks pretty now. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 I have electrical FIRE again! Still can't weld, but that's not the machine's fault. I just can't get an arc to stay started today. I put the new cables on. Equal length, 15 ft each. It's nice standing away from the machine. Before and after: Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 I am glad it is working again for you. It is a interesting looking older machine. I haven't seen one like it before. By the way nice color! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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