Hi,

I have a lot of O2 tool steel and I intend to make knives out of it and differentially harden them.
I want to get a Hamon on it by coating it with clay in the Japanese style.
Would it be possible to get a good hamon on O2 steel?

Has anyone tried to differentially harden O2? If you have pictures of (differentially hardened) O2 knives or any information, it's welcome!

Thanks,
Louis

Hi,

I have a lot of O2 tool steel and I intend to make knives out of it and differentially harden them.
I want to get a Hamon on it by coating it with clay in the Japanese style.
Would it be possible to get a good hamon on O2 steel?

Has anyone tried to differentially harden O2? If you have pictures of (differentially hardened) O2 knives or any information, it's welcome!

Thanks,
Louis

I heard you could still get O2 in Europe..not so in the US

It is a deeper hardening steel due to the manganese content, but you "can" get a differential hardness zone on any steel, but some are simpler than others. The hamon will track much higher and be above the clay line and not as detailed as a shallow hardening steel like plain carbon 10xx series.
Watch your austenizing temps and be as close to the transformation temp as possible for that steel.

Ric

It is a deeper hardening steel due to the manganese content

Never knew that manganese is responsible for making steel medium/deep hardening, thanks for the info! still, compared to W1 (having about 0,5% Manganese)it only has 0,5%-1,0% more.

I heard you could still get O2 in Europe..not so in the US

O2 is actually one of the few decent blade steels I can get in this part of Europe, I would REALY love to get some plain carbon steel like 1060, 1075 or 1085, But I can't buy them anywhere without having to resort to importing it from far away.

Watch your austenizing temps and be as close to the transformation temp as possible for that steel.

How do I do that?
I would think checking with a magnet to see that it is heated above non-magnetic and then quench would be good.

And one more question: do you think interrupted quenching will give a better defined and detailed Hamon?

Louis

Never knew that manganese is responsible for making steel medium/deep hardening, thanks for the info! still, compared to W1 (having about 0,5% Manganese)it only has 0,5%-1,0% more.

O2 is actually one of the few decent blade steels I can get in this part of Europe, I would REALY love to get some plain carbon steel like 1060, 1075 or 1085, But I can't buy them anywhere without having to resort to importing it from far away.


How do I do that?
I would think checking with a magnet to see that it is heated above non-magnetic and then quench would be good.

And one more question: do you think interrupted quenching will give a better defined and detailed Hamon?

Louis

Louis,
Aus temp...the manufacturer knows..ask for a data sheet. Start at 1365F and work your way up to 1550F in small steps of 25-50F..see which is best for what you want. Let it soak to full temp for at least five minutes.
Do you have an accurate way to measure temperature?
Non-magnetic is BELOW the temp you are looking for...more or less..at 1% carbon you need 1550F for full austenizing. non-magnetic is called the Curie Point and it is a constant temp so if you have .80C steel is it too hot and for 1%C it is too low.

I recommend Dr. John Verhoeven's book on heat treatment for the knife-maker.
http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Metallurgy-Non-Metallurgist-J-Verhoeven/dp/0871708582

Interrupted quench..the clay does this for you..that is why you use clay.
The old in/count to three/out count to three/in to cool may be OK as well

Manganese:
Try looking for a copy of "alloy Elements in Steel" by Edgar Bain.
0.3 MN can double the hardenability of steel...so imagine what 2% does...

Holland:
A few good knifemakers from Holland were at a gathering in London...
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=12214
The only one I remember by name is Goddie (spelling?), but there were four of them that came to London....good group of guys!
I suggest you try to locate them and see what they say for supplies and such for your area.


Ric

Aus temp...the manufacturer knows..ask for a data sheet. Start at 1365F and work your way up to 1550F in small steps of 25-50F..see which is best for what you want. Let it soak to full temp for at least five minutes.
Do you have an accurate way to measure temperature?

I will ask him about it, I have several data sheets for O2 already, so I can use those too.
I do not have a digital temperature gauge if that's what you mean.
I thought about getting one, but they are pretty expensive.

Try looking for a copy of "alloy Elements in Steel" by Edgar Bain.
0.3 MN can double the hardenability of steel...so imagine what 2% does...

Looks like a good book. I knew that even a small amount can give different behavior, but not that much.
I know there are some good knife makers here, but I haven't been able to find many.

BTW: I came across a company selling DIN 75Cr1 (werkstoffnummer 1.2003) it is a German variation of AISI 1075 and chemically the same except for the addition of 0,30%-0,40% Chromium. I know 1075 steel is VERY suitable for making Japanese style blades, would this steel be too? exExactly what will the 0,30%-0,40% Chromium do?

Louis

the addition of Mn isn't exactly deep hardening, more like medium hardening. The 0.4% of Chrome will make it deep hardening, lousy for getting a Hamon, but great for a larger blade that will take a Beating and stay in shape! I would get some 1074 + .4 Chrome and use it. Also I wish I could get O2 as it makes for very dark layers in pattern welded billets, I heard it called O1 without the nasty stuff.

oke, Thanks for the info!

The other steel I am ordering is S4 spring steel (DIN 60MnSiCr4, Werkstoffnummer 1.2826). It seems to be in the ballpark of AISI 92XX except that it has less Silicon and more Chromium. That will make it a deep-hardening steel, but a lot of companies like Cheness and even James Raw make very tough differentially hardened Katana's out of spring steel.
Has anyone tried getting a Hamon with these kinds of spring steel?

And one last question: Should I get a digital temperature gauge?

Louis

for anyone in the U.S the triangle T corp. uses 02 steel for the blades on it equipment, i got some from a freind that used to work with a wood chipper with blades made by them and he gave me the old blades, i havent gotten a chance to make anything from them yet because not long after i broke my right wrist but as soon as i can ill let yall know how the steel forges

for anyone in the U.S the triangle T corp. uses 02 steel for the blades on it equipment, i got some from a freind that used to work with a wood chipper with blades made by them and he gave me the old blades, i havent gotten a chance to make anything from them yet because not long after i broke my right wrist but as soon as i can ill let yall know how the steel forges

if not let me know..... I would be interested

I will be able to start forging in about two-three weeks from now, so I'll let you all know how it went.

And let us know how it forges Irontanner, I'm looking forward to see your result.

Louis

I will be able to start forging in about two-three weeks from now, so I'll let you all know how it went.

And let us know how it forges Irontanner, I'm looking forward to see your result.

Louis

i will let you know as soon as possible but that might be a long ways off