small traveling/demo anvil swage block

[Sam Salvati]

Here is a fun design for a small demo anvil and swage block. I got those blocks, and figure it won't be too much to make up a heel and horn and peg/weld them on and even add a welded on top of good steel (grind clean, tack, then forge weld). can send them out to the waterjet guy to get the square and round holes cut in them and any other shapes cut out that might be cool. The whole anvil will be mounted with a hinge on the one side and a keeper pin on the other, it can hinge down on it's side to use the swage holes. It won't be huge, so the forge weld will not be impossible with just a regular size forge. can even make the horn heel and face plate all from 4140 or such, so all can be ht'd real easy as well as welded fairly easy. can have some fun and get real artistic with the hinge and stuff.



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[Bryce Masuk]

looks good to me and pretty practical
seems like a fun project

I need a swage block myself they arent cheap like they used to be

hopefully you would be able to take it on a plane if needed

[Sam Salvati]

Thanks Bryce! would fit in a carry on the blocks are good size for a small swage block, i'm gonna talk to the waterjet guy about those too.

[pkrankow]

Having it solid 4140 with the horn and heel integral may cost less to make than the separate processes. I am unsure of how to machine a cone onto a rectangle other than a CNC mill or lots of hand grinding.

Phil

[Sam Salvati]

You try and give a better way to do it then find an immediate fault with that way, I don't understand? I know I don't have access to a CNC mill nor the money to pay someone who does. who cares about cost either? My time to myself is free . Plus I have all the parts I need for my way. This anvil is not for sledgework so the structural integrity is not an issue being welded (not that it is or would be a problem with both the mechanical bond and the welded bond). Forging the horn and heel also makes finishing each part much easier, as it can be done separately, the horn especially can be turned on the lathe or forged then welded on, the heel can be drilled and drifted for the hardy hole then also welded on and both can easily be manipulated on the grinder to be finished before attaching.

[Mainely,Bob]

I was going to suggest that since you were going to get in water jetted to include some half circles and V grooves to the outsides but I think I'll just help Phil get up instead. ;)

[pkrankow]

I like the idea, I was under the mistaken impression that this was for fun AND profit. If its only for fun, then ignore my previous post. I was also unsure of what level of equipment you had access to.
Phil

[Sam Salvati]

I didn't mean to sound like I was puttin anybody down, it's just that I tend to think things through fairly well before posting, I am not some 16 year old kid posting energy drink fueled late night ideas.

I like the idea, I was under the mistaken impression that this was for fun AND profit. If its only for fun, then ignore my previous post. I was also unsure of what level of equipment you had access to.
Phil

No need to ignore anything Phil, it was a good suggestion, it's just not right for my situation. I think we all learned from Grant's multi anvil thread that anvil making in the modern world cannot be fun and profitable hehe :D

[pkrankow]

Seeing as I only have a drill press, and access to a lathe (2 hours away) I would be forced to make the horn and heel as separate parts too. Because of that I would leave the heal off and use a holes in the swage for a pritchel and hardy. With light work, what can you do with a heal that you can't do on the face or bick?

Having a flat back allows for the shapes in the side that Bob was suggesting.

I think I needed a cookie and a nap the other day.

I also thought you worked in a rather well equipped shop with a boss amicable to side projects. Granted "well equipped" does not mean anything remotely like "every machine under the sun"

Phil

[rustyshackleford]

looks like an interesting project Sam, reminds me of the stuff Fionbarr was getting cut out (really neat swage/anvil combos)

[Spears]

I didn't mean to sound like I was puttin anybody down, it's just that I tend to think things through fairly well before posting, I am not some 16 year old kid posting energy drink fueled late night ideas.

That's too funny. LOL! I clicked on your post (without even reading the title)expecting to see some cool looking long blade or something. Instead I see some new idea for a multi-purpose anvil swage block along with a bit of poetry. I guess today I'm on the bonus plan! Keep on hammerin'. Peace! Spears.

[don't tread on me]

I didn't mean to sound like I was puttin anybody down, it's just that I tend to think things through fairly well before posting, I am not some 16 year old kid posting energy drink fueled late night ideas.




No need to ignore anything Phil, it was a good suggestion, it's just not right for my situation. I think we all learned from Grant's multi anvil thread that anvil making in the modern world cannot be fun and profitable hehe

Hay I don't like that about 16 year olds.

[Dan P.]

Sam, I don't mean to disparage, but how many time in a decade do you use the holes in a swage block?

[Bentiron1946]

Oh, I don't know how many times in a decade I used them but I think it was more likely on a daily basis but it was mostly the smaller diameter holes, 1/2" to 1" the most. I used the same size in square too. Didn't have much use for larger than that as it took more to swage down the stock than I cared to put forth. <_<

[Timothy Miller]

Why not take one of those bickiron tops I make out of forklift fork and weld one of those on top.

[Sam Salvati]

well I use the holes on a swage block for upsetting and punching mostly, the ones put on in the drawing are there just for illustration, they could be any shape. I would personally like ovals of different sizes for drifting and punching eyes and such, and holes from 3/16" to 1" in 1/16" increments. There could also be dishing cups, doesn't have to be holes. I like the heel and hardy hole option, an anvil with a 3/4" hardy hole would be easy and it would be easier to just toss them in and out of a hardy hole instead of dropping the anvil to the side everytime you need to hot cut. I thought about putting in V grooves and half rounds, but it hinges to the side, which would make it hard to use the sides. You could of course hinge it on the end instead but would lose a bit of stability.

The shop is well equipped, but it's a modern blacksmith shop not a machine shop, so no CNC or waterjet, but a small lathe and bridgeport type mill, powerhammer, welders, standard stuff.

Dan, if I had one that had everything I wanted on it instead of 2 or 3 things I wanted I would use it alot more.

spears, hehe thanks I got some sharp stuff coming soon!!

[Dan P.]

Oh, I don't know how many times in a decade I used them but I think it was more likely on a daily basis but it was mostly the smaller diameter holes, 1/2" to 1" the most. I used the same size in square too. Didn't have much use for larger than that as it took more to swage down the stock than I cared to put forth.

How do you swage down stock in a hole?

[Bentiron1946]

I was making tenons and upsetting big rivets for sculptures of mine, lots of them, lot of rivets.
If you're making tenons a swage block is a very handy tool, medium handy for the rivets I was making. <_<