cavala Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 So I'm looking into ideas on a new welding/fab table, I'm moving in a new shop at the end of the month and I want to set it up to last. I currently work on a 4'x4'x1" winch is fine except for larger projects which require the floor or one of my wooden tables. I'm not sure if I want one large piece of plate for the top and maybe bore holes in it for clamping like One of those modular fixture tables or maybe a table with slats,sorta t-slots. Much less boring for a table with slats but it might be a chore to level the individual plates. If I do the one plate method how thick minimum should it be. I heat and beat on my current table and it's done fine. I imagine if I do the slat method I may want it thicker since there would be less area to dissipate the heat... I don't know? Also if I do the slat method how wide should the plates be and spacing, 1in maybe 1.5. I'm also open for ideas you have maybe come up with. Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Find and buy one or more plattens,with or without base.You can bend up your own hold-downs. This is what the big boys use so if you`re looking to step up then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavala Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Yeah, you got six grand for a couple acorn tables than that's great. I'm looking for an alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 If you can find HEAVY C-Channel, you could fabricate a frame and use several pieces of channel for the top. Set them apart a bit to form slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Plattens can be found just like anvils can,sometimes for more reasonable money too. Check Craigslist for a city near you and do a search for "welding table".You`ll be surprised what shows up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 I use a 4'x6' table made from angle iron mine are spaced at a foot I am going back to put in more pieces but is works well with clamps and quick clamps. have had it for th last 3 years. got the angle 1 1/2x 1/12/x1/4 as a drop from my metal shop scrap price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wargo New2bs Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Here is an acorn table for $900. It is located in Maryland. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyP Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 francis do you have a pic of your angle table? Im wanting to build something similar but not sure how well it will work for my needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 How come all the better deals are on the other coast??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 So I'm looking into ideas on a new welding/fab table, I'm moving in a new shop at the end of the month and I want to set it up to last. I currently work on a 4'x4'x1" wich is fine except for larger projects which require the floor or one of my wooden tables. I'm not sure if I want one large piece of plate for the top and maybe bore holes in it for clamping like One of those modular fixture tables or maybe a table with slats,sorta t-slots. Much less boring for a table with slats but it might be a chore to level the individual plates. If I do the one plate method how thick minimum should it be. I heat and beat on my current table and it's done fine. I imagine if I do the slat method I may want it thicker since there would be less area to dissipate the heat... I don't know? Also if I do the slat method how wide should the plates be and spacing, 1in maybe 1.5. I'm also open for ideas you have maybe come up with. Thanks Marc How big of work area do you need Mark? I have two tables sides by side and level to each other. The main table is 6' x 12' and 2" thick. I do 85 % of my work on it but I do use the cast t slot table for some things. I would vote for a single big slab at thick as you can aford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nordic Forge Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 My dad and I made a smaller work table with tube steel for a frame, angle iron for the legs then put a good quality plywood on top then covered that with a nice thick piece of sheet metal. It works great and it's easy to bolt down a vise or other table mounted tools to it. I would definitely recommend doing it that way, you'd have to up the scale but the price of the sheet metal is worth it. -Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavala Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 How big of work area do you need Mark? I have two tables sides by side and level to each other. The main table is 6' x 12' and 2" thick. I do 85 % of my work on it but I do use the cast t slot table for some things. I would vote for a single big slab at thick as you can aford Well need and want are two different things I would like a 4x or 5x 10'. I havent priced out new plate and wanted to look into secondary plate also. It would be much less labor leveling one plate as opposed to many slats. How thick? I would love a 2" slab but thats prolly out of my budget at the time (wifes having a baby and moving into a new shop all at the same time). Is 1/2" or 5/8" too thin? Would boring holes be worth while. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 I think so.... and there is nothing to say a hunk of old plate wont make a fine table. My big table belonged to the late Russell Jacques who was a very accomplished smith here in the northwest.. I paid $300 for it because no one could handle it, its about 4 ton with the base... You probably wont find that good of deal but if you watch something will come along that will be reasonable and work.... If it was me I would work off your old table and make due rather than spend money on a 5/8 or less plate, it will not stay flat unless you put a huge amount of sub structure and are super careful with how and where you weld... I can do pretty much anything on my table with no fears... Tables are out there, I have bought and sold bunches for dang near scrap prices... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Well need and want are two different things I would like a 4x or 5x 10'. I havent priced out new plate and wanted to look into secondary plate also. It would be much less labor leveling one plate as opposed to many slats. How thick? I would love a 2" slab but thats prolly out of my budget at the time (wifes having a baby and moving into a new shop all at the same time). Is 1/2" or 5/8" too thin? Would boring holes be worth while. Marc Marc, Wish you were closer. My steel supplier gets "drops" from the ship yard and is cutting up 1 3/4" plate (random 30 to 42" wide by 6-12 foot long) into squares with a trolley oxy rig for his uses. I got two 3x10 foot for my tables and set them on wheels..not that I move them much, but I "could". I have four 1 3/4" thick rounded corner 4x4foot plates I was planning on using till I saw the larger...they are sitting here in the dirt. I had planned to place them on square tube bases on wheels so I could reconfigure them as required...in increments of four foot ...4x4, 4x8,4x16,8x8 etc I have another 1 1/4" thick 6x7 foot table on a square tube stand as well which is doing nothing but holding the ground down. I have found that the more flat surfaces I have the more %^&$ I put on them. I have used 1/2" plate in the past, but if it is not well supported with channel or angle it will droop and even if well supported it will warp a little with heat between the supports. I'd say 1" minimum with supports every two foot..IF you do hot work on them. I never found much use for the acorn tables..never worked in a shop with them and given the weight and cast structure vs modern rolled plate, well...I always found welded angle iron clips and clamps to them and the stock to be adequate. After the job you grind them off, fill the grind with weld, grind again and your back to flat. It sounds like a hassle, but it is just a bit of time. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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