scuba14c Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I have a square body forge and I want to line it with SuperWool 607, but need a way to bond this to the walls of the forge. Has anyone used a refractory cement or bonding agent which would allow me to do this? Would anyone recommend just using bolts tapped into the steel to secure the wool? Would this work- http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250390768466&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 How big is this forge? Pics would help too. Any specific reason you feel that the pressure of the wool will not hold itself in place? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat pete Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 never seen anyone bond the kao wool to the body...was told it just makes a mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 All the industrial ovens I worked on and maintained had the ceramic wool held in by mechanical means,SS bars that were welded to shell outside and welded plate of various sizes inside with the ceramic in between.Keep in mind these worked at considerably less than forge heat. The large smelting furnaces that worked at higher heat all used hard brick tied in with hardware and then coated to provide a smooth high temp surface.The smaller ones were one piece cast in place. I never saw an adhesive used for anything but holding temporarily during assembly and that led me to believe the companies I worked for were unable to find one durable enough at a cost effective price.That`s not to say they weren`t out there,it just means the big boys didn`t use them. That being said,My advise would be to make either a one piece or built up hard liner tied to the shell somehow or to use sacrificial hardware to tie in the ceramic wool and then coat it to make it one smooth durable surface. If you do come across an adhesive that will last long term I`d be very interested to hear about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scuba14c Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 The forge is 900 cu.in., about 15" long, 6" high and 10" wide. I am not sure how stiff the refractory wool is, but would the wool and a coating of ITC-100 be enough to hold the wool to the bottom and sides? I think I will just use some hardware to secure the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 There is no way to hold up a flat blanket across a flat roof that size. At forge temperatures, any hardware will be gone it no time. In large fores we used blanket that was pleated tightly. We put 1/8 inch SS tig rod through some of the pleats and tied then through the wall, expanded metal makes a good wall for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scuba14c Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 There is no way to hold up a flat blanket across a flat roof that size. At forge temperatures, any hardware will be gone it no time. In large fores we used blanket that was pleated tightly. We put 1/8 inch SS tig rod through some of the pleats and tied then through the wall, expanded metal makes a good wall for this. Even coating in refractory cement and ITC will still cause hardware failure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Even coating in refractory cement and ITC will still cause hardware failure? Probably! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 How would a rigid insulation like Duraboard hold up to that span? Would both layers need to be duraboard, or could the duraboard support a layer of wool? Will rammable or plastic self support over that span? Lastly: Does the forge truly need to be that big? (yea, yea, that might be flamebait, no offense intended) I know, answering questions with questions is not often productive. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Try inconel pins and washers. Weld the pin to the body of the forge, press the wool over it, slip the washer over the wool and give it a twist. I have used them for years and found them to work very well. http://www.thomas-welding.com/goujon/refractory_anchors.htm brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Try inconel pins and washers. Weld the pin to the body of the forge, press the wool over it, slip the washer over the wool and give it a twist. I have used them for years and found them to work very well. http://www.thomas-welding.com/goujon/refractory_anchors.htm brad Worth trying, I haven't had much luck with inconel over 2500F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Larson Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Grant, that pleated material idea is superb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Pkrankow: No, without attachment anything will sag or fall. Cast or rammed cracks in a short time. An arched roof is a nice way to go, like a tunnel. Even pretty weak materials can support themselves in an arch. Thanks John, but it's not really my idea. They sell modules like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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