reefera4m Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 I've been surfing the 'net for months tying to determine the best way to attach slabs/handles to knife tangs - specifically elk antler. I'd tried several methods, epoxy, peened rivets (brass, copper,steel) and special bolts. All work to some degree but nothing great. I finally found some great information on a couple of forums, knifenetwork being the most informative, and thought I'd pass along the information. For those not wanting to read the whole thread, here is a summary. The best way (according to the professionals) to attach slabs/handles is with high strenth aerospace epoxy and pins. A couple of knife makers/members of the knifenetwork forum tested a number of glues and epoxies and documented the results in a spreadsheet. Here is the link to the spreadsheet along with a link to the thread (LOOOONNNGGG thread). I've also include information about Loctites epoxy designations. The 'E' series of epoxies are high end epoxies you can't get at Lowes or Home Depot (try Fastenal first). All 'E' series are extremely high strength and the HP's are high performance. Good Stuff Adhesive spreadsheetEpoxy Spreadsheet Testing for the Ultimate AdhesiveTesting for the Ultimate Adhesive Loctite Epoxy nomenclature First Letter E = Epoxy Numbers (120 and 60/50/40/30/20) = Cure time Last Letters = Sub type/color: HP high performance CL clear FL flexible IC induction cure NS non-sag NC Non-Corrosive GW galvanized steel to wood HT high temp UT contains kevlar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokshasa Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 funny you should put this up i just did my first scale handled knife yesterday, i used pins only and the fit is not 100% but with epoxy all the little things would be filled in for a better hold. thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Sorry but: "The best way" depends totally on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are trying to make very accurate versions of historical blades that "best way" is terrible and you need to research what they used at the time and place. This is a great resource for people but I object to the term "best way" without qualifiers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefera4m Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Sorry but: "The best way" depends totally on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are trying to make very accurate versions of historical blades that "best way" is terrible and you need to research what they used at the time and place. This is a great resource for people but I object to the term "best way" without qualifiers. Thomas, Your are quite right. I should have phrased my quest for a method to attached handles in a way that more precisely described what I was trying to accomplish or provided a caveat to that effect. What I meant was - I was looking for the way to attached slabs, made of either wood or antler, to a full tang handle design (of 5160 steel) such that, along with brass pins, would insure the slabs would remain secure to the tang under the most stressful conditions the knife would likely encounter given the options currently available at a reasonably economical cost. (similar to the tests performed that lead to the spreadsheet). What I found was an expoy, Loctite 'E' series (specifically E20HP) that has an adhesive strength of 3000 - 5000 psi, unaffected by temperatures up to 350 degrees, water resistent (dishwasher safe!) and strongly resistent chemicals/solvents. The result of my test with this epoxy yielded the folowing: Even without the brass pins I couldn't remove a piece of elk antler I epoxied to a clean (sandblasted) piece of 5160 using a 22 oz ball peen hammer (I did manage to break off some pieces of the antler by not any that had epoxy on it), heating to 350 degrees didn't have any effect and several dishwasher cycles on Max Clean/Pot Scrubber, Heated Drying did not losen the slabs. I also sprayed a liberal amount of Carb Cleaner on the test piece with no discernible effect. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Waldon Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Thanks for the info. I need to get some of this stuff for my knives. Dishwasher-safe would be a huge plus! (I guess that only applies with stainless steel though... Oh well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 No the "dishwasher safe" applies to almost *everything* as *someone* *will* put them in the dishwasher *sometime*! (why I forged my eating set of Ti and self hilted the knife) You can often restore a handle that was accidentally washed if it is still tight to the tang; but if it's a common mishap you really need to sell the customer on making all the components dishwasher safe. Fore Historically accurate work it's usually repair/replace time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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