territorialmillworks Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Moved into our new shop wich has 10' ceilings with blown cellulose attic insulation. I chose the cellulose because it has more sound deadening than fiberglass. Lots of bare, unobstructed walls and ceiling. Now that we've moved in, I can't believe the echo from just normal shop activity and hammering is even worse. So I'm looking for cheap, non-flamable sound deadening material that I could maybe mount diagonally between the ceiling and wall to break up the reverb. Was looking for old school compressed cellulose bats that came in 24 X 48 sheets but they don't seem to be available anymore. Exposed foam panels are very expensive and seem like a fire disaster waiting to happen. Anyone got some ideas or sources?? (And yes, I know, have a new shop and am already complaining) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratel10mm Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 This stuff caught my interest when it appeared on the New Inventors TV show last year:Quietwave on New Inventors It seems very cheap, & is fire retardant too! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimaudio Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I wish I had your problem. My shop is tiny with a low ceiling. But if I had to kill some reverb in my workspace I'd use this- Owens Corning 700 Series Fiberglass (703 is what I usually use). Comes in 4'x2' sheets, fire retardant up to about 400 degrees F. or more. In 25+ plus years of owning, operating and installing pro audio systems it's the best I've found yet.FIBERGLAS 700 Series Insulation Not too expensive, either. For this application I'd use the 1" 703. This place has it for fairly cheap--Acoustic Panels, Owens Corning 703 / 705 I'd alternate the batts in a checkerboard pattern around the edge of the ceiling- wall, ceiling,wall etc. to kill the reflections in the corners up high. Continue the pattern all the way around the top edges of the room and then out onto the ceiling and wall surface as needed until you get the room as dead as you want it. If you're worried about bare fiberglass cover the batts with cheap cloth of your favorite color and get some spray- on fire retardant. Most theatrical supply places have fire treatment that you can apply with a simple squirt bottle. Hope this helps- Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
territorialmillworks Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thanks for the info guys. The fiberglass panels will work best in my application and budget. How are they attached to sheetrock? the sight didn't really say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Why not look for some old ceiling tiles 2x2 or 2x4 in size and hang them from the ceiling vertically. It should act as a sound baffle. Cloth (canvas) should work also. Hang in random patterns for the best results. There are other threads on the forum discussing this problem. A search of the site may be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimaudio Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Lots of stuff will work for treatment. For the best absorption you want soft right angles that don't let the sound reflect out. For hanging the fiberglass we use long sheetrock screws with fender washers so the screws don't pull through. Cheers!- Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBrann Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Theatrical "fireproofing" products like Rosco Flamex work well, but must be applied in keeping with manufacturers instruction... Usually they need to be re applied every 2 to 4 years... to keep things less flamable... Most foam or fiberglass products must be coated with a skin material to make them less porous, and less flamable prior to flame retardant coatings.... That being said, Get some ceiling product, some flame retardant product, and do some test peices... and maybe involve your local fire marshal.. . I am glad you didn't go with foam and no fire retarding chemical... look up "the station nightclub fire, Rhode Island" if you want a horror story. That happened not for from me, not a good time for the entetainment business. I am a carpenter and rigger in a large arena, and have had to deal with flame certifying a lot of stuff over the years.....It occurs to me that there are some flame retardent paints now that might work better for your project.. I am not sure where they may be purchased... but a search might help.... Take it for what it is worth... Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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