final grinding after handle attachment

[overmodulated]

Folks: your advise please:

Once the scales are epoxied and pinned in place for final grinding, how do you deal with keeping the whole assembly cool in between passes at the belt grinder or sander? Grinding the excess wood down to the metal in a full tange design still generates much heat once the belt contacts the metal, enough heat to possiby compromise the epoxy bond. Am concerned about repeatedly sticking this in water as it seems this could ruin the wood or the bond.

Thanks much!

Edited July 27, 2009 by overmodulated

[SBuzek]

I do about 80% of handle fitup before glueing,then after glueup do a litle grinding and let it cool and do alot with files and sandpaper.
Stan

[Rich Hale]

I only use materials that have been stabilized or ivory, bone, antler etc and some woods that are so dense that they cannot be stablilized. It would be really ad and pricey for me to overheat any of these things. I dip in water if they start getting warm to my bare hands. I use an epoxy made for knoves. Dull or cheap belts really raise the heat alot. Pricey belts stay sharp longer and are a big help. Too fine of a grit will take too long to remove the bulk of the material and keep the heat down also. I take wood handles down to a bit oversize with an 80 grit on a belt grinder and work through finer grits until maybe 800 grit then buff Antler or ivory I
start at 220 or so and keep it cool.. Good luck

[Dave Budd]

sharp, new belts and plenty of patience, especially with heat sensitive materials and glues.

or use hand tools ;)

[Muttt]

If your knife parts are not sensitive to moisture, use a typical hand held spray bottle (like a windex bottle) and mist the area after a couple passes. That keeps things cool. I usually do that when I am grinding down a bevel with a 4 inch angle grinder. Keeps things cool so you don't mess up the heat treat.

Mutt