KevinYarbrough Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 A friend and I are making andirons (fronts) from 1 3/4" rod. The top of this element is a cube. From there is a radius transition into a narrow 'collar' that is more or less the nominal diameter of the original stock from that is a transition into a 1" square section. The problem lies in the collar / square transition it is canted / leaning. Hopefully, the attached drawing makes this clear. My question is how to straighten the element from the 'collar' upward without deforming the collar ? We have tried blows to the collar (at yellow heat) on the 'short side using a wooden block - does not deform the collar, but results in little if any adjustment. Adjustments with large tongs opening over the cube and jaws on the collar have not been effective - again at a high heat. Given the thickness of the stock, I suppose this is no surprise. Your suggestions are appreciated.Burritt Heavy Andiron 2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Heat it up, put the length in the vise, gripping on the collar. use a pry bar to align the cube while in the vise. The jaws of the vise will give indication of when every thing is parallel. You may have to put wedges in the stock behind the collar to hold it where you want it before attacking the cube with the prybar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I approach these things with what I call a three points of pressure approach. if you lay that flat or imagine yoiu do. so the humped part is up you will also have two points of the piece on the bottom those are two points..the third is the top of the hump. You have to apply pressure to the top while supporting the bottom solidly for things to move. If this is a low carbon mild steel this could be done cold in a press. And as it moves you may have to shift the pressure oints to keep it going your way. I also expect if you had a press you would have already used it. Mikes way may work well for you. If you have a good sized O/A torch with a rose bud you apply heat just in the area whe you want to bend and again use three points for the bend. If your heat source is a forge and again if this is mild steel you could heat the whole area and quench the areas around the problem With a bucket of water on the one end and dunk the end in slack tub and ben then. You could make a long bar with a hollow on the end like a top fuller to move the hot part into alignment with out distorting the piece as much as a flat hammer will. OOOOOOOOOOOORRRRRRRRR bend the other one the other way and they can be a set....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinYarbrough Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Mike and Rich - both of you have made good points that I will use. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 If you weld a length of iron to the end of a wrench you will have a wrench that can twist as well as give good leverage when straightening a project that is mounted in your vise. Having two opposing handles gives good control over the straightening process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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