Finally got to use my new anvil. Wow, does it make a difference. I needed some thin stock for a couple of small paring knives. Started with a piece of 1/4"x5/16"x6" 1084FG and drew it out to about 1/8" thick. Then forged a couple of blades. Total time a little over one hour.
Thanks for looking and all comments are welcome.

That's certainly and interesting anvil, I can't say I've ever seen anything like it. What's it made from? The lower blade looks really good, especially for the amount of time it took you.

Thanks Chris. You can read about the anvil here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f83/wip-post-anvil-build-13137/

That's really cool! I need a new anvil myself. (I've got a piece of crap 20lb) Where did you get those posts exactly?

Chris, I have been looking about 4 years for the right piece of steel. This came from a local scrap yard. It's hard to find square stock in large sizes. I did not want round stock. This was actually in one piece when I bought it. I had to have it cut in half. Check with your local scrap dealers and let them know what you are looking for.

What would you say are the major advantages of this style anvil for bladesmithing?
Thanks
Mark

If only I lived in an area with scrap dealers...
Oh well, beggars can't be choosers. How is this advantageous for bladesmithing?

Mark and Chris, Japanese blade makers have always use similar anvils for forging. The entire mass of this type anvil is concentrated under a small working area. The mass of western anvils is spread over a much longer area. I have a 147# Hay Budden and a 128# Mousehole, both in excellent condition. The Mousehole has a shorter horn and heel. It "hits" like it weighs more than the Hay Budden.
After using the post anvil only once, I am convinced. It will be my blade forging anvil from now on. For general forging, the other two will stay busy.

Most forging (say 80%+) can be done using the face and edges of a block anvil. Bickerns can be used in place of horn(s) integrated with the anvil. Tooling as one might place in a hardy hole can be held in the vice or in a stake plate, mounted on a bench or post. Alternatively fullers, hardy cutters etc. can be forged with a tapering tang and mounted on a log/stump. Such a setup (hornless anvil with separate bickern) was common in Europe until roughly the 18th century, and later in other parts of the world.

I've been reading your posts on your new anvil with interest Mr Broach. Looks like a handy tool!

Matt87, thanks for your input. The "modern" anvil has developed into a multi tool in the last 200 years.
By the way, I already feel old enough so call me Mike. ;)

Mike, thanks for the posts on your anvil. I have a great scrap yard close by and have picked up a great piece of a large forklift fork I was going to lay flat for another anvil. I have been watching for a solid square piece of steel but have only found up to 3 to 3.5 inches. But with your info and seeing how to make a good stand(I had been thinking about how to get my height correct), I am going to keep looking for the right piece and hold out with hope. This yard has many pieces of round stock up to large diameters has anyone ever checked about using them and having the machinist square the last few inches and surface the end for you?

devins, machining to a square would work. You would need at least 7" round stock to end up with a 5" square. A 20 " length of 7" round would weigh appx 217#. Machining cost might be a bit high unless you have a friend.

That is what I was wondering too, about the cost. The guy had some up to 13" round but I think that is the problem with it, you can't do much with it. Otherwise try to end up finished as 5" square. I will just keep checking with him for square stock. What if they cut it with a torch in stead of a saw? Can that be a problem if it is 2 to 3 foot long, so it would be a good distance from the end you would use? And thanks for the help, I really like your design.

Don't make the whole thing square, all you need is one square side so just flatten one side and put it to use.

Any decent size bar will make a fine anvil stood on end a semi drive axle makes an excellent anvil mounted on end flange up though you may have to grind a flat spot on it.

Frosty

My first anvil was made from an old piece of railroad my grandpa had lying in his shop. Had an inch of soot and dirt on it. Some cutting, welding, and grinding and it was done. Grandpa really had it together.

I like the post anvil. It is much easier to dress down if needed. I have one that I have welded all kinds of fixtures on, drilled holes in it, etc.. Still functions just the same as my other manufactured anvils.

Very nice Mike.

Vinlander