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I Forge Iron

Some Reflections on Drawfiling 5160


Morlock

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Morlock, I know where you are coming from, but, I watched Jim Batson draw file on a large bowie knife one time, he cleaned it up good in about 10 minutes. It may seem elementary, but I did not realize this till he said it. The larger the file the coarser the cut. Start with a big file then work your way down in size and it will get smoother. I like a belt grinder too.

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It stinks.

Belt Grinder order goes in monday.


It's like a Pick& shovel compared to a Backhoe.


Just took a look at your site, could you describe the techniques used on the metal work on tankard and horn.

Thanks Mark Edited by markb
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I did a couple Samuel Bell knives under Dr. Batson, a few years back. He's an excellent smith.

I've done a bit of draw-filing (See the attached photos - no power tools of any kind), but even starting with a new horshoe-rasp, the extra bit of Chrome in 5160 makes it so much more stubborn than even 1090. Like a pick and shovel on hard-pan...

It's fully annealed, by the way.

As to the Horn etc on my site, the mounts are formed and fabricated, then deeply etched. Getting the etchant the proper strength is the key to realizing your resist, properly.

15505.attach

15506.attach

Edited by mod07
chrome /vanadium correction
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Er, that is "Chromium." I'm always mistaking the two - probably because that's what it says on all my screwdrivers. Although, if there was any vanadium in there, then it really would be difficult, wouldn't it?

Anyway, I took it to critical along with an equal-sized piece of mild-steel, then stuck both in powdered lime overnight. Trust me, it's annealed.

It's not impossible to work, I just notice a marked difference as compared to simple carbon-steels.

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When i did my apprenticeship as a Toolmaker here in OZ draw fileing was done with left or right hand on handle and left or right hand on file itself, Backwards and Forward lengthwise not across. The only way i would use a file pulling towards me is sharpening Axes/Knives, drawfileing was to get rid of high spots pointing fingers resting on each side of the steel.Not trying to be smart ,but that was my training?? I'm not sure what you mean????
Onya Mate
John :confused:

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  • 2 months later...

Yeah, I would hope that I have the cutting direction of the teeth down by now. Although, that would explain the added difficulty...;)

Thought you might like to see what gave me all the trouble, now that it's done.

nordic4.jpg

nordic3v.jpg

nordic2k.jpg


Incidentally, I wound up with a Coote 6" 2x72 grinder. Love it to death.

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When i did my apprenticeship as a Toolmaker here in OZ draw fileing was done with left or right hand on handle and left or right hand on file itself, Backwards and Forward lengthwise not across. The only way i would use a file pulling towards me is sharpening Axes/Knives, drawfileing was to get rid of high spots pointing fingers resting on each side of the steel.Not trying to be smart ,but that was my training?? I'm not sure what you mean????
Onya Mate
John :confused:


I was taught in my apprenticeship the same as you the handle sits in your dominant hand. When draw filing you arent really using tghe teeth the way they are meant , we were taught it is a bit of a cheat and we were not allowed to do it in the company but it was OK at TAFE.
We were also taught not to use shifters only spanners. It was a strict apprentice ship in the first two years, but that discipline is beneficial I think. They were big on safety. That helps too.

DW
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