Making a Rail Anvil

[JesseB]

Hi guys I'm new here and this is my first post after lurking for a few days. I've never done any smith work. I know how to weld and I have made stock removal knives that were honestly poor but after reading the $50 knife shop one day I decided to try forging.

Heres the scenario I have about a 16 inch section of Railroad Rail and a Cast Iron weight off a small pump jack. the weight is about 2.5 inches thick and it's approx. 12" x 36"

I was thinking about cutting 2 sections from this weight and welding it into the side gaps of the Rail to make it beefier. Hopefully to take the ring out of it and add some weight so that the stand doesn't need to be so heavy.

Would this be a good idea or should I just cut and layer the weight until its just a stack of metal and then use some kind of steel for a face? I have some good steel strap that I could but up together and weld to the face but I'm kind of leaning towards beefing up the rail and wondered what you guys thought.

[Charlotte]

Well, first off cast iron does not weld very well. Many knife makers set the rail on end and work on only the cross section of the top rail. If you use the search section here you will find a lot of information on how to use rail road rail as an anvil.

Welcome to iforge iron. If you go to the user CP and post your location it will be easier for us to help you.

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard Jesse, glad to have you.

Using the rail on end will work a lot better than trying to weld cast iron to it for weight.

First is the vastly improved depth of rebound through the length of the rail rather than across it. Meaning it's a LOT more rigid and returns a LOT more energy to the stock.

There are a number of handy things you can do with the exposed ends of the flange and web too.

For instance you can sharpen (I recommend the web for this, it's a bit safer) web as a hot hardy (double bevel) or butcher (single bevel). I also recommend reducing the height below the end of the rail for safety and so you won't accidently mark up your work.

The flanges can make dandy fullers for quickly drawing or fullering a blade.

The natural inside curves between rail and web will serve as a swage but you'll have to get used to hammering horizontally instead of vertically.

Same for the natural curve of the rail face, it makes a fine vertical horn even though it doesn't taper to a point.

If you want a hardy hole decide what size shanks you're most likely to find or make, 1" seems to be very common. Anyway, buy an impact socket with a drive the same size, 1" in this example and weld it either to your rail or a separate stand. Having your hardy somewhere other than on your anvil can be WAY handy.

A good way to set it up is in a bucket of concrete with a couple pieces of rebar horizontally under it to minimize beating the concrete to gravel. This will let you to get a 16" long rail to a comfortable working height too though you may need to use a cut down barrel or Sonotube.

The cast iron laid flat on the ground would make a decent upsetting plate. If you have access to a machine shop you can turn it right into a swage block. If you have a drill press and some bi-metal hole saws you can do it yourself though you'll only have the half round swages and round through holes. It's still SWEET to have a swage block.

Frosty

Edited May 27, 2009 by Frosty

[Dragons lair]

Frosty you must have been very good to get out of the corner so fast. (GRIN)
Ken

[Frosty]

Frosty