re lining gas forges how often ???

[johnptc]

i am using a coke forge made of firebricks............pretty bullet proof.

i would like to get a gas fired forge......most seem to be insulated with insulwood or other refractory blanket materials.... or itc100 coated.

i heard that these forges require regular relining maybe after every 20 billets of pattern welded steel ...........

is this the case ??? or what is your experience ??


what about a gas forge made of firebrick.......?? hard to make it round.

comments please

Edited May 7, 2009 by steve sells

[Charlotte]

If you want a round forge then get the hi temp plastic refactory. ( pre mixed clay with additiatives) With a ITC 100 coating on the inside and the outside layered with Refactory blanket you would have nearly bullet proof forge with the kind off brick forge life time.
Re doing refactory blanket, in my observation, depends on the kind and abuse it gets.

Remember, refactory blanket is not intended to take the kind of abuse we give it in a forge.

On the plus side it quick and relatively convient to go the blanket route. On the minus side it costs more in the long run. If you are able to charge off the blanket to your sales then all is good. OTOH If you produce to order and have to fill in with other work then building for the long haul may be a better deal.

PS. Use one of the cardboard tubes sold to contractors to build the plastic in. They come in all kinds of sizes. If you don't have a buddy in the contracting business then round pails and buckets for local discount stores will make good inside and out side molds.

Edited May 7, 2009 by Charlotte
add post script

[Frosty]

Use Sonotubes for forming up rammable or castable refractories. They're cardboard concrete forms and come in a very wide selection of sizes for a few bucks each. Probably what Charlotte was talking about.

Use two, one tube's OD being the same size as the ID of the forge liner you want. The other tube needs an ID the same size as the OD of the liner. I made mine about 3/4" thick and it's still good after better than a decade.

Place one tube in the other on a hard smooth surface with the gap even all round. Now drop some refractory in the gap and ram it down with a dowel. The first couple lifts you have to be careful not to push the tubes out of position. Once it's firmly set by some refractory rod more in using lifts of 1-2" and rod them hard till you reach the length you want.

If you use a castable refractory simply pour it.

Once set peal the inner sonotube out carefully so the liner doesn't crack as it dries. With the inside sonotube removed the outer one can stay if you like because shrinkage will cause the liner to loosten in the tube. However pealing the outer tube will speed drying.

It's easier to do than describe.

Frosty

[johnptc]

thanks to you both.........

any specific refractory recommendations.

i would prefer to build for the long haul....5+ years

thanks !!

[Charlotte]

Just make sure the manufacturer says it is suitable to 2800 deg F. Check the literature and see if it says anything about carbon monoxide.