leroyk Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 recently I have a problem when making billets with pure nickel in them. the nickel does not stick to the other metals. any sugestions. Maybe not quite hot enough or what. thanks for any help, leroy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 You did not tell us what your experience with carbon steel metals has been prior to the nickel and what kind of forge you are using and if it is new to you. Also need to know what the other metals(s) in the billet is. We may be able to help with the above blanks filled in. I use pure nickel and 1095 in a lot oo my billets and the test of whether a billet is welded is when you twist it up tight. Mine stay welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leroyk Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 rich: the other metals are 15n20 and either 1095 or 1084. not sure of brand of forge but it is a 2 burner. gets the metal tol almost yellow hot. I do n ot have a lotof forgeing experience but inthe past have been quite sucessful it is just the last 2 times that igotnthe seperation. The process i use is to bring billet nto red then flux and bring too brite orange and flux again and then back so flux isn bubbling a lot and then I pack hammer and flux again and get it bubbling again and then hammerit harder the 2nd time then reflux and back to forge when bubbling again i go at it with a 50 lb power hammer flux once more and repeat and then proceed to draw it out. and spoit and repeat process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 (edited) When you get the metal red it is starting to form scale. Flux should clean that out but it does not always do it for me. I heat until it is not red but close and flux. I also weld one end and add a handle. I do not weld any more places as it does not let the flux and scale come out when you tap it. I do use mechanics wire and tightly wrap the billet every two inches or so. I start the weld and the end with the handle and weld to the first wire and cut the wire..Brush and flux and weld to the next wire. Etc. You did not say wot thickness the materials are, thin nickle sometimes wiggles around before the weld. I weld all of my billets in a can if they have pn in them. You may be able to find info on that process if you search a bit. After the first weld I draw and restack after grinding and weld again....Make sure when you stack that you do not end up with two mating surfaces of pn. If you do put a thin layer of high carbon steel in between them. Anyone can do this...but it sometimes takes a while. Nickel prices are up real high now. I would stick with 15n20 and 1084 or 1095 for a while until I get every billet 100% everytime. Also watch out for the total amount of nickel by % in the billet. keep it low. Edited May 6, 2009 by Rich Hale ............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Pure nickel does not like to stick to its self. I use thin sheet nickel and it seems to weld just as easy to steel as steel to steel I always use the nickel in the interior layers not on the outer layer. Try to weld flat a couple of heats before striking on the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Some folks use a more aggressive flux with fluourspar in it for welding Ni. What flux are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leroyk Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 u sing plain borax the nickel is about .030 I think you are right i will stick to the 1 5n20 and either 1095 or 1084 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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