Fe-Wood Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Nope, On my way there now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oak Hill Forge Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Frosty, When heat treating a hammer head do you have to do the two ends separately ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Frosty, sometimes folks cut off a few millimeters of the flat side to even out the balance. The hammer looks real nice Ditto on the niceness!! I see old ballpeins at flea markets all the time cheap. I guess if I get the US-made the steel might be better?? Could one instead upset the flat side to move the cg more to the center? I suppose it would be very difficult to do that and not distort the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Heck, I don't know what this one is made from but it seems to be doing well enough. Being a bit out of balance isn't bothering me so far so I'm not going to mess with it. The next time I find one of these I may try forging the face into a pein to see how that works though I like having a flat(ish) face opposite the pein. Frosty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 About me being "strong",Frosty,i'll quote my old employer,an immortal Alaskan Sid Huntington:"The only strong thing about me is I smell strong!". I really hear Charlotte,in her post above.Phil set both of us up with a Centaur's 1000g Swidish style jobs.The reins were about 3/8"circle in radius-sharp enough to ruin anything in a single blow(the damage is NOT,necessarily,visible,mind you). I know that the manufacturies know what they're about.I must assume that many sell their hammers "dress to your own spec's"type of a deal,like some ww tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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