J W Bennett Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 I went and looked at a 50# Meyer Bros hammer today. It is complete and runs, the sow block has had some work done on it. other than that it seems to be in good shape. Can anyone give me tips on what problems to look for? I am buying this for a back up but do plan on using it. Can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what a 50# hammer in good condition is worth? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to rush into a deal. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Hammer prices vary considerably depending on where you live. The further from the uppermidwest were most of the hammer were made and probably used due to sharpening plows the higher the price. I see you live in Indiana so problbly a lot less than the 3 coasts. With people building air hammers and now the tire hammer, which is a very sweet machine, little giants have come down some also. Ussually anything under $1000 running is a deal. It all depends on the depth of the pockets and how bad ou need something. One mans steal in anothers rip off Let us know what you decide on buying If you dont buy maybe someone else on the list would be interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Based on my experiance having bought only one LG hammer. Look closely for brazing repairs on sow block, clutch system, pitman arm and cross head. Check for clearance/modifications on ram guide, bent and worn toggle arms and head (if you can pull a toggle arm, this will give you an idea how much the head socket has been worn). Be sure there are adjusting shims on ram guides and crank shaft babit bearings. Check hight of both dies to see how much has been removed. Also, look at clutch fork for repairs or severly worn forks. These are some of the parts that are no longer available or costly to repair. Also, go to Little Giant Power Hammer Very informative. For referance, I bought a basket case but rebuildable 100#er for $1200.00 It was 25 miles from my house, so I could pick it up. Most of the ones I'd seen before that were anyware from $1800.00 (Needed work, no motor) to $7000.00 (rebuilt) depending on condition. They all had additional shipping charges. Hope this helps Be sure to check all pins and arms for slop and alignment as these are the parts that go most. Also, plan on replacing the spring for good measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 With the LGs the sow blow is weldable, Meyer Bros are the same. Preheat to 350 and use E70S-6 MIG wire or E7018 SMAW. (according to Sid Suedmeier). Fe-Wood covered everything varly well. Check shims at the bearing caps but most likely it will need to have new babbitt poured. I machined and pressed a bronze bushing in my pulley, elliminating that babbitt area. $$ varies greatly, mine was less than $200.00 but need a total rebuild=$1400.00 ('06 prices) in parts and that's NOT including the ram, I used my old ram. It is a 1926 model. Let us know how it comes out. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 (edited) If it is a Mayer Bros. made in Kaukauna Wisconsin it will say so on the crankplate. If it is one of these the above info will not apply. It will not have caps or babbit, it has cast iron bushing pressed into the frame. The ram guides do not have shims, they are adjusted with threaded rod crosswise thru the split frame. While they do look somewhat like a LG there are no parts other than springs (different from LG.) and dies from Sid. If you found a good one they are very good hammers. Arms from LG can be used if you change them both as well as the spring, and make custom kunckles. I have a25# it was stuck everywhere but no wear $500. The 50# had a broken frame, worn out bushing, badly eroded dove tail, worn out ram and guides, and all the pins and holes were worn out. I paid $160 for it. Phil Edited March 17, 2009 by peacock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it. I spent the day trying to finish up a job so I did not get a chance to go back for a better look. I should have time tomorrow. I'll ley you all know what I find out. Once again thanks a bunch. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Phil, thanks for that info. guess that's what I get for assuming they close relatives. sigh. JWBIRONWORKS, sorry for my misinformation... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 I had a chance to go take a better look today. The sow block is broken and someone has jury rigged a clamp on it to hold the bottom die on it. The rest of the hammer seems to be in good shape. The pin and the arms are tight with very little movement and the motor has a flat belt set up. It is a early model 50# mayer brother. With the sow block broken I have my doubts, He is asking $2000. That is pricey for a back up hammer that I really don't need. He says that if the sow block was in tact he'd be asking $3500. Think I'll let this one go. John Once agian thanks for your input. Thomas your information was good for early models. I beleive it was the late models made in minn. That are totaly different. Had my hopes up....maybe next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 If this hammer has a removeable sow block it was built 1926 or later. If the block is solid it was made before 1934. If it has a hole thru it it is later than 1934. Sid has new sow blocks cost about $625. If the hammer is realy good $2000 plus the price of a new block is not too bad if you need the hammer and it fits your budget. If the owner thinks he can get $3500 the new block would be a good investment for him. I also have some sow blocks that can be install on that hammer would need more info to be sure. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 It appears to be an early model with a one piece sow block. I believe to repair it properly I would have to have a new piece machined and then weld it on to the original piece. I have a Big Blu 110 and am looking for a trip hammer back up in case the compressor fails. 2000 plus repairs is a bit steep for a spare. But I would have liked to had it sitting in my shop. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 I passed on the hammer. If anyone in the area is interested it is located in Riley Indiana on state road 46 at the old gas station across from the bank. I don't know if he has a phone, sorry. Theres no sign just alot of old stuff sitting around. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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