nuge

I worked in an off the grid shop with a generator for 3 years.  It was hard.  

The savings In fuel cost will be substantial. Even if the working time/heating times are close that's good enough for me. I always need seconds to do tasks in between heats when producing. You can always turn it down to get more time if you need it.

That's one of the best things about these machines. There is a rising time heat level (a rotary dial) and a corresponding timer, and then there is a retaining time also with a timer. For example you can set the rising time full blast for 60 seconds and then back the machine off to say one quarter power for 60 more seconds which saves in electricity but your part is still really hot and more importantly not burning when you need it. So useful, it turns you into a production machine, if you can keep up.

You will need a good water cooler with a big resivoir when working those chunks.

I would guess 1.5 - 2.5 minutes per heat with a good fitting coil. You cannot go full on full power with that size, you have to soak it at a lower setting for longer as induction heats from the outside in. the fact that you are working a slug as opposed to the end of a bar makes all the difference, the machine should be enough.

I am amazed at how cheap the 15kva machines are on ebay. 1300 bucks shipped, jeez.

I have that same KMG, it's stout. I got the base add on as well and think its a good idea, makes it tough to move but that's a good thing. American made, they answer the phone, good accessories. It's a lot of tool for the money.

I have been running a thermal arc TA 185 for the last 8 years. Use it every day (99.9%tig) it's my go to welder. Lots if bang for the $.

I agree with SJS, the two pieces show a lot of character and a real intuitive understanding of the material. Keep it up man.

Induction heat, Tig welding is a close second.

Yeah, no high freq. i have a smaller thermal arc 185 I use a lot more for tig but when I need more power the XMT is real nice. The only other gripe I would have, and it's a small one, is that the fan is on a lot, especially during the warm months.

I have a miller XMT 304. I really like it and mainly use it for stick welding and tig. All I have to do is flip one lever. There's no solenoid on the machine so it's lift arc for the tig. I got used to it but it would be nice to have a pedal. I used to have a suitcase for mig that plugged right in but I don't really use that process too much so I sold it. The nice part is the thing is under fifty pounds and fits on the shelf, and at 300 plus amps, packs some power.

I like the torx headed lag bolts. They are easily modified, or not, and easy to install. Another useful method is to make a deep dimple into the workpiece which somewhat obscures the fastener so even a Phillips head looks fine.

If I am at a show and a customer is looking at a piece with attractive hardware I make sure to use that as a selling point and this is often met with a positive response. If you don't supply hardware then you are passing a problem on to the buyer.

Let me say that my beliefs are not aimed at the hobbyist or even the beginner but the "professional", meaning someone taking $ for services.

I could care less about the lineage of said horse head. That's not my point. In a world where everything is at your fingertips, tools, knowledge of technique, the best materials, etc, is it really the best course to take the path of least resistance, copying another's work?

Creativity is one of the main tenants of craft and in this age where things are mass produced and stale I would say its one of the most important. Let's take the whole idea of theft out of the equation for a minute. If you get into the habit of lifting designs then how are you going to figure out that new commission you acquired? I think it's better to learn techniques and then adapt those to your ideas, your style. I don't really like the kind of workshop where all the students make the same thing, I think it stifles the core of learning, --exploration. It's more valuable to the serious student to get the basics, get an idea, and then see if they can make it happen. A lot of times failure results but that is fine. But as beginners we all want to make something that looks cool so the teachers have to teach that straight line so the student feels like they accomplished something. I want it all and I want in now.

And that leads me to my last point. A lot of smiths try to go pro too soon. If you can't make it on your own work maybe you should continue your training and let your style and design sense grow a bit more before you make a go. This is craft, it takes a long time to become proficient. And when we are all copying each other it is the craft that suffers. And the audience.

Black Frog

 

Thanks for the info, especially the techy stuff.  You could think about writing an article for some of the smithing mags/newsletters,  you are most of the way there and your insight is right on.

 

much appreciated!

Hey Sergio-

 

Whats the story on that hammer?  I does not look like its been used too much.  Do you have the belts and treadle?

 

Keep in mind that you are going to want the dies to be at a comfortable level.  I have this same hammer and am 6"2" tall and my dies are 42" off the ground.  That puts my base height around 20" and I wouldnt mind a few more inches of height.  If you can find a thick piece of plate to put on top of your timber base that would be a bonus, more mass is good.

 

Looks like you can get a VFD (7.5hp) off ebay for about 500$ new.  I just hate the idea of getting a new motor because you have one sitting there.  

 

Good luck enjoy the ride.

 

Ill see if I can get pics of my base today,  whoever built it did a nice job.

 

Jamie

No, not enough. And yes, a big concern. I would focus on a phase converter or Vfd, that size/rpm motor configuration is an oddball. And then you would have to get the right sized pulleys etc. keep on the hunt, something will work out to get it powered up on the cheap. In the meantime you can be scrounging for base material and figuring out how to mount the motor.

Nice find. It's fun to see what happens to your marks as the go around the corner. I've used similar moves in collars and banding. Often if the chisel mark or texture or cut or punch is manipulated using the elastic properties of steel you get more interesting results. Keep up the tangential thinking man!

You want "non detergent" oil.  Not too hard to find, ranch type stores or places that sell ag equipment seem to carry the stuff.  Some auto places as well.

 

I never had luck with any static converters, tried them on a few machines and even when I got them to work(barely) you could tell the motors were not happy.  Craigslist is rife with rotary converters.

http://www.beautifuliron.com/gs_stc-88_air_hammer.htm

 

If you do not have three phase available you are gonna need a 7-10 h.p. rotary phase converter.  Or swap out the motor.  

Neat Guy,

The Pullmax type machine is awesome, but limited by their long, skinny throats. I'd also like to design this for hot forging with the intent to move the thickness of the material quite a bit more than a nibbler would. A purpose made power hammer would be ideal, I'm just trying to work with the Little Giant that I have to see what kind of sculptural applications I can explore.

-Adair

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think the third drawing is innovative but you are making a big lever to destroy whatever mounting system is in place.  Fact is I think you can do some shallow dishing with a hammer but as you approach the 1/2 hemispehere things get tricky.  I would be very wary of doing handheld stuff, especially as the radii gets smaller, and especially cold.  I would have an eye towards working bigger (thicker) material hot and shallow.

 

I think that stiff is more important than weight. I the right direction of course, opposing the clockwise forces. Pinned to the floor goes without saying.

I definitely made posts to this thread that are gone. They were referring Brian's missing photos and were critical and raised questions about ownership and preservation of information. No rules were broke, no bad will intended, just the opposite. Criticism is a cornerstone of improvement.

 

 

We do not deny things are missing,  we stated that we did not remove them, no clue where they went or why the developers of the software like to use us a guinea pigs for bad code.

I have a few recent posts to this thread go missing. Why was I censored?

If you've used a bandsaw and liked it that is probably the best option. Bandsaws and hired help don't mix. It's nice to have an abrasive saw to cut alloy steel but hard to get any decent precision.

I tig h13 and most anything else cold with stainless rod. Most press tooling welds do not take that much abuse, it's all in line. Haven't had a failure yet, and one would only take minutes to fix. Cool tools.

Like I said, you seem to be one of the über varieties. I do love a good upset. I think it's pretty cool that it's a difficult procedure. For that reason you don't see a nice big upset in a lot of people's designs. Makes the move all the more valuable.

Here's a pic of the upsetting die. it features a hole clear through the hardy and a flare at the top. You still have to bump out the middle somewhere so it grabs in the die. Maybe that's why I didn't use it that much as that was a pain to do. This one is for 3/8.

But we're BLACKSMITHS!!!  It's not suppose to be easy.  Swinging a hammer all day is also time consuming and usually physically difficult, but I'm a blacksmith, what else am I going to do?  :-)
 
After you've done it a bunch of times, it should have gotten easier.  Plus, think of the shoulders you'll have :-)

What mr Frosty said. I do a lot of forging and most of my friends think that I work really hard, sweating and grunting. Maybe in my twenties. Now days I pivot my foot or pull a lever. Maybe knock around a piece with a hand hammer at the end to tighten it up. I think it's important to build skills by hand and smart to then carry on with power. Not many dudes can get away with taking that abuse their whole career. You may get big shoulders but your tendons and carpel tunnels will be toast. Could be you are one of the anomalies Gerald. Whatever works, right?