Dutchmancreek

One suggestion I have heard is to take a grinder and remove the bark on the piece as the surface put on at the mill seems to resist welding more than the metal just underneath it.

I nearly always grind the surface of the weld area. The mill scale or whatever surface it is can make a weld very difficult. Some steel has it and some doesn't, but I treat it all the same.

Steve

CurlyGeorge........do you ever get down to Mount Vernon for the IVBA open forge on the second Saturday? I haven't been for a while, and need to get back.

Steve

Be sure to send us a picture!

Steve

I was just going to be at the forge for a minute so I was wearing a pair of topsiders with no socks. I still have a scar on the top of my foot. I nearly broke my leg getting my foot in the slack tub.

Steve

Frosty....I make the smaller ones (Weber grill, deck bbq grill) about 14 inches, not counting the handle. The smallest I've made is 12 inches and that was because I just had a short piece of stainless rod stock left. Larger ones for fire pit or larger grill cooking are about 22 to 24 inches.

Steve

Looks nice is the twisted handled pc a flipper also ? Some of my friends would like them I'm sure you wont have trouble getting rid of them !!

Yes, the basket handle is also on a flipper. My photo didn't show all of it. I made that basket out of some 1/8" stuff I had laying around. I was surprised it welded as easy as it did, but I used a block right on the forge to do the weld before it cooled.

These sizes of flipper are all right for small grilling, but for my big fire pit I use a longer version with a wooden handle. Actually, the wooden handles with metal ferrules that you buy for files (they come in three sizes) make good handles for these types of implements.

Steve

I've always got a few antler sheds laying around in the shop, and use them for handles for meat flippers, forks, etc. Not really a blacksmith thing, I guess, but I like to do them. I also usually make braided lanyards for the antler handled stuff, not like the one in the picture.

I've never sold any of the antler handled flippers. I've given them all away to friends who are interested in outdoor cooking or to my deer camp buddies.

I've been asked if I would like to demonstrate and sell at an art festival next spring, so I might make up a few as part of inventory...I suppose they might sell.

Steve

I saw another thread with some meat flippers. These are some of the ones I make...they are all that I have left here. The antler handles are popular with the folks at my deer camp.

Steve

I agree with maddog. Weld the ends and then make it round. Shape it however you need to to get the ends together to weld. (It's the same way I was taught to make silver rings...get the ends soldered together then put the "ring" on a mandrel and shape it.)

If the rings are small, I have a small "anvil" block right on the forge to make welds before heat is lost. Small parts can cool quicker than you can step over to the main anvil.

Steve

Those anti tank projectiles, if they were APDS type would have good tungsten steel in them. Where was that dumpster?

If they were APDS (armor piercing discarding sabot) they could also have a penetrator made of depleted uranium. Probably not a good raw material for forging.

Steve

Stainless kegs are often used as a boiler for home distilling hobbyists. Probably better used there than as a forge.

Steve

Nearly all kegs nowadays are made of stainless steel. Any aluminum kegs would be very old. The standard keg you see is about 15 1/2 gallons and is probably too big to heat up. The next smaller size is about 7 1/2 gallons but the shape is wrong for a forge...large diameter but short length.

Steve

I agree with Thomas. A sharp horn is usually not necessary, and sure does hurt. I tend to walk between my main anvil to get to the swedge block or the smaller anvil (set higher) and If I'm not careful it catches me right on the hip...ouch!

You can remove the mushrooming, but don't make it too sharp.

Steve

I'm usually pretty successful forge welding. Some points I might offer.....

Having a deep fire to use up the oxygen before it gets to the steel is important. Back when I had a shallow, flat forge I couldn't weld until I built up the height of the fire with fire bricks. My forge now has a deep fire pot.

Some new hot rolled steel has a coating of some sort of mill scale that can hamper welding. I make sure to grind the surface clean before I weld.

Have a clean fire...coke and no clinkers.

Small parts cool fast. I have a small anvil right on the forge to stick them before they cool. Small or large, work fast.

It doesn't take a heavy blow to weld the parts together. A heavy hit can deform the parts or even cause them to slip.

Be confident, think of what you are going to do before you take the piece from the fire. It doesn't hurt to practice your motions (especially if you are doing a "drop the tongs" weld).

Steve

Small hose clamps, bailing wire both work. Another course is to bend a 28" rod so as to have four sections that are each 7" long. Then the pieces are all held together, no clamps or wire is necessary. Forge weld the ends and twist.

I just made four basket twists today, but I MIG welded the end tips of the bundle and then forge welded them. When I forge weld the ends I usually forge them into a square section instead of using a semi-circular swedge. Since I usually forge weld the baskets to square stock it works out better for me that way.

Steve

People need to understand that each piece is unique and hand made. Art work is not a bad comparison. A lot more people appreciate this than you would think. Some people buy only by price...let them, because you'll never change their mind. There's always those who will buy hand work and pay for good craftsmanship. If nothing else works, raise the price and you might find a whole new market.

Steve

Forks are awkward to use for steaks and such. Actually, BBQ tongs are best for turning meat...that way you don't pierce the meat and let juice out. That said, the hand made meat flippers are popular just because they are different and "cool". I would say that most of the deer antler flippers I've made and given away are never really used much used, just kinda shown off.

Steve

I make the meat turners with some stainless stock I had on hand. I usually use deer antler for the handle, with a knotted lanyard attached. They are either left or right handed.





Steve

I like to forge weld. It's relatively easy and somehow just "feels good". I started using a MIG for just light fab and repairs here on the farm and found that "tacking" parts together made forge welding a little easier. You can't tell it was ever done after the forge weld and subsequent operations.

Steve

Whew! I needed to make up a few baskets for some fire place tools and cooking forks I'm going to build. ( I weld up the bundles and twist them so I have a few on hand when I need them). After welding both ends on 8 baskets, I had to go jump in the pool. It's too hot today.

Some might call it cheating but when I make baskets, I cut the bundle of rods and MIG weld the very ends to hold them together for forge welding. I've wired them together, used hose clamps, and folded them but this way is easiest when I'm in my own shop.

I've heard that a lot of people have trouble with forge welds but the only time I have problems is with welding a small item to a larger one....like a leaf to a branch.

Steve

Here's a photo of my rail anvil. It's made from relatively heavy track. I keep it on the edge of my forge for a convenient place to (try to) forge weld small pieces.

That last post had the wrong photo on the left. This is the one I wanted with the rail anvil on top as a size comparison.

Try this one.....It won a lot of championships for Mike Mills's 17th st.BBQ

I use an air gate that I bought from the internet. Simple and works well.

You might also consider adding a spring loaded foot switch, so that the blower is shut off when you step away from the forge. After you forget to shut off the air and burn up some steel, you'll find it handy. I made one from the foot switch that came off an old sewing machine.

Steve

I have never made a ring in steel, only in silver but if you're serious about making rings, then you need to buy a ring mandrel. They are tapered and etched with the sizes. They can also have a flat or groove for bezel clearance. I bought mine from MonsterSlayer.com ( they sell jewelry making tools and supplies.)
.

Remember, welding heat is lost very quickly from small pieces. The only way I can manage to weld small things is by having a small "anvil" right on the forge at the edge of the fire...no turning around or moving the piece (and I don't have a high success rate at it then).

Steve

I get the same type of questions. I recently took a silversmithing class, and when it came out in class that I also did blacksmith work the first thing brought up was did I make swords or knives.

Since I never make either, I described some of the projects I actually do, but the kids (college students) lost interest until I mentioned that I did make an occasional tomahawk.

Steve