Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver

an other option is to find a old folk lift tang and cut it to fit and weld it on. put a piece of aluminium in the harder hole and weld around it before welding on the tang clean the face and bevel the edge and do a good deep fillet weld.

Well, I'd probably machine the middle part flat and cut a dovetail in it. Make a 6" long die and wedge it in. That would give a reasonable working area. Then weld up around the hardy with 7018 to make it usable. That way you end up with nice heavy anvil with a good working surface, a usable hardy hole and a nice horn. What else does a chap need to have a good time?

If you are meting it in the trough, it will bond to the trough, 100% guaranteed!

You're right, that's a better match for sure. Wouldn't be unusual for them to change the base.

Looks to be a Flint-Lomax. They were pretty light in the anvil, but I'd use it for your project.

I had one replace in the hyd shop as mine was bent. I had asked if it was anything special and was informed it was mild steel with Chromed O.D.

The replacement was not chromed, just mild steel. Should have kept that old rod.

Often (usually?) 1045 or in higher end stuff 4140.

Another Watts drill video:

Real Video of a "Watts" drill:

I would call a person that heats , and changes the cross section of the material through forging a blacksmith.

A person that cuts, and welds , preformed bar stock, etc, a fabricator.

Patrick: Was that in Indiana? They had a really different hammer, like maybe 100 pound?

Depends, are they round or square? We run into a lot of square wrought iron ones around here. I've theorized they could have been made during the depression as a way to turn your scrap pile into a little more cash than the scrap yard would pay.

I'm with Phil, but I'll add a little. When heating with the torch, don't put the heat right on the end. Heat further back and let the heat "run" out to the end.

Not knowing the steel is a crap shoot.

Do this, do that, whole bunch more stuff in here, and, Voila!! Instant hardy hole .

Let me guess; threaded rod, hammer square, chisel, twist, hammer square, chisel, untwist. Close?

Kewl!

Most solid circular saw blades I've seen were a water hardening steel. The production line I saw had the blades coming out of the furnace on a conveyor, dropped it on the spindle in a quench press and the press would close. All automatic. The quench press had water cooled platens that held the blade perfectly flat while they were cooling. Very fast quench. Then they were drawn, the teeth set and sharpened. In this thin of a section, I'd expect them to be anything from 1045 to maybe a little better.

Run it through the wash machine when your wife is at bingo?

Here's rotary broaching. Square, hex, whatever:

Rolling half-rings, ah! There are some cheap hand-powered rolls out there. Remember; it won't roll the first and last couple inches. If you need it perfect you need to cut a little off the ends after rolling. Also, you usually want to roll them a little tight and adjust open rather than even attempting the other way around.

Be pretty hard to use grooving rolls on square bar.

Friend of mine used to bring me piles of carbide burrs in different configurations. Place he worked at used them on titanium for a couple hours and tossed em! Still worked fine on steel. Same with diamond abrasives from the glass blowers.

Stick a 2 X 4 down from the top and hit it.

The Northwest Blacksmith Association is able to extend it's liability insurance to NWBA SANCTIONED events and hammer-ins. There is also a difference depending on whether you're charging or it's just some friends getting together.

Just as long as the charcoal is in the chamber it will consume the oxygen.