Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver

The " Novelty Ironworks" Hammer on Ebay is interesting. I just sold one last year. The Novelty Iron works folks only made 300 of these hammers. Their claim to fame was that the company made and installed the iron sides on "Old Ironsides".
The power hammers were meant to be set up with four pieces of pipe for the stand. They were made to be portable so they could be packed in to mining camps on the back of a mule. Odd: With only three hundred made, I know of three here in Western Oregon.

I'm glad Tim showed this, for sure. I was just responding to Sam, gotta keep these kids plumb.

Should work fine. Put some charcoal in the bottom to reduce decarb and scale.

Sorry Sam, Clifton Ralph was showing us his version of that tool twenty years ago.

Given that the Nazel was made under Beche license, probably 6 - 8,000 pound. The anvil probably goes down below the frame. Got any pictures?

Didn't notice the title, oops.

I think they come in many sizes. That would affect the answer to most of your questions.

Very nice! I've considered different schemes, but never gone so far as to build one.

Interesting idea, keep thinking! Recognize that one of the advantages of the the above systems is the rapid advance/retract the steam/air gives when pressing.

I'm wondering how well this work when translated into hydraulics with oil in it ? How would you get around the viscous oil slowing down the air ram ? Could you get away with huge ports and check valves ? Its a neat idea for sure.

Three ways actually. Differential heating, differential quenching and differential tempering. Of the three I have a preference for differential tempering in most things. This allows you to make the softer part a high strength, just lower hardness.

Differential heating is most easily done with induction or a torch.

They weren't used for heavy hammering. The heavy work was done by pressing and the hammer mode was just for planishing.

I've seen several of those in different books. Seen to have been made in the range of 50 - 200 ton. Came into their own for navy ship-board use. They ran on steam and used an steam over water hydraulic system for the pressing strokes and rapid advance. Straight steam was used for planishing.

Absolutely stunning work, and I second it being really nice to see pattern welded stock used for something that isn't sharp and pointy.

Actually anytime I catch my neighbor throwing out a snag of good baling wire I steal it out of his trash---quite useful!

I sold a power hack saw once that had what was known as a "Johnson-bar" drive. The had two jaws so it always centered in the same spot and there was a linkage from the vise to the crank that changed the stroke of the saw. So, if you had a 2 inch part in the saw it might take a 12" stroke, but if you had a 12" part in the saw it only took a 2" stroke! This allowed all the teeth to be used, many hack-saws only wear out the teeth at the back end while the rest of the blade is like new!

V-jaw tongs hold rounds far better than round-jaws do.

They were mouldering away in the Basement of a Court House, somewhere in the Mid-West, ... until they were "rescued" by a local Historical Society's Document Preservation Program, that scanned them into a computer, with internet access.

The nuts on the tee bolts are used to adjust the spring tension. the most common method of locking them is put 2 nuts on each bolt then hold the nut closest to the arm with a wrench and jam the second nut up against the first with another wrench.

This video shows two things relevant here; side-by-side double anvil and a round ram.

One word: "cotter pins"! OK, two words.

The idler needs to be on the outside pushing in to work best, the rotation is right

There are some WPA/CCC buildings at Forest Park in Everett. Might find some ideas.

Measure how many amps the motor pulling under full load (FLA) . FLA is typically stamped on the motor tag. Or if you can't put your hand on it after running it for say 5-10 min you're overheating.......If you can smell it or see smoke it's a no brainer.............The motor could be overheating because the machine is not running freely or isn't lubed...........

Just a small note; 1550º; is not hot enough for blacksmith heat treating. A heat treater usually uses a soak of 1 hour per inch of cross section. Alloys are slower to transform than carbon steels and a little extra temp can substitute for a long soak. In this case 1600º seems to work well.