Judehey

Makes sense, thanks. I knew I should have paid more attention in thermo class.

Only happens when it's cold. Im using a 40# BBQ style tank. I've read that the overfill prevention (if it has it) would actually reduce the pressure.

I have a TS8000 attached to my spare propane cylinder via a 12' braided hose. While using it yesterday, I noticed drops of liquid coming out of the nozzle, about a drop every 5 seconds. When the liquid hit the hot metal, it appeared to burn with a yellow flame. It was cold, about 30 degrees F. The tank is chained upright. What is this? It wasn't cold enough for propane to liquify. I just shut it down and didn't mess with it.

Thanks

I haven't heard back. I'm just trying to not waste fuel by running both burners for small pieces. I get orange verging on yellow, but I would like more working time. Thanks

Thanks, that may have made my decision for me. The price difference between the Victor and the Hobart seems to be narrowing, and the Hobart doesn't come with the heating tip, which will be my main use.

Just getting started with my first forge, a 2 burner Devil Forge. I currently find myself using a single burner most of the time due to the size of the metal I am working. How much of an impact does that have on forge temperature? Should I make an insert to reduce the volume of the forge when using a single burner? Does it matter? Thanks

Thanks, I'm researching cylinder prices now. Here's the response I got from Uniweld: Are Uniweld Type 13 interchangeable with Victor W-1? Yes, these are the cross over for the W-1 Can Type 13 be used with Oxy Propane? Yes Are Uniweld Type 4 interchangeable with Victor W? Yes, these are the cross over for the W Can Type 4 be used with Oxy Propane? Yes

Thanks for all the tips and advice. I did bevel the bar, about 1/8" I admit I knew I should have preheated the block and just plain forgot. I'll try again with a preheat, if that fails I'll try normalizing and/ or a side weld. I'm a total beginner at this, just more opportunities to learn.

My flea market anvil pretty has no good edges, so I made an anvil block by welding square mild steel bar for the hardy hole to a hardened steel bench block I had laying around. Predictably, the weld failed after a few dozen strikes. Internet research says I should anneal the hardened steel, weld, then harden again. I have no idea what kind of steel it is, and I don't have the tools to anneal properly, but I figure I could at least normalize it. Do I need to try to harden it again after I weld it, or will the normalized steel be adequate? I don't have experience hardening, and I'm not sure it would fit in my forge. Thanks

I guess I was thinking I wouldn't close the front completely, but thinking it in terms of reflected IR makes sense. I guess I should plan to close off the front when able. Thanks

Why the 1" gap between the front of the forge and the firebrick doors? Thanks

Sorry to join the conversation late, but I just started researching this topic. JHCC, any specific reason you want with the Victor over the Hobart? The Victor is $75 more and the Universal Nozzle is another $75. The Hobart can use Uniweld Type 13 which appear to be Propane compatible. I say appears since I've spent two days poring over tip catalogs and I'm still not sure what everything means, but it also appears the Uniweld Type 4 is propane compatible and can replace the W series. Somebody please correct me if I misread something. I was leaning toward the Victor, but the tip situation is really driving up the price. Thanks, Jude

I'm welding up a stand which will have tracks for firebrick. Thanks for the spacing and coating info. Amy opinions on the flame?

Here it is, finally. Fired it multiple times, no more water dripping and seems everything is hardened. I still need to clean it up and give it fresh coat of paint. First flame is shown at about 3 psi, the rest at 7. Chokes set per manufacturer instructions. Looks good to me, but I don't know what I should be looking for, so expert opinions would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks, I'll touch it up. Already drilled three holes along the centerline on the bottom.

Here it is with the ridgidizer and Kast-O-Lite floor. Just went in a trash bag with a wet towel over the ends. Comments, critiques, or suggestions? I have a little more KOL if the floor should be higher. Thanks

I'm setting up my new Devil Forge. It comes with strips of ceramic wool to insulate the burner ports. How do I ridgidize this? I've searched and read through forges 101 and burners 101, but all I've found is that I need to, not how to. I have fumed silica, as well as a brush on air dry ridgidizer provided by the manufacturer. If I use the silica, will it get hot enough to cure/set? I can use the brush on ridgidizer provided, but how do I get the burners out, or should I not plan to? Thanks

Thanks Frosty In another post you said "reasonably dry". Is overnight appropriate? Is too dry bad? Thanks again

For flame curing the silica, how hot? How long? What should I be looking for? Thanks

I just recieved my first forge, a Devil Forge two burner oval. I also have some Inswool, KOL 30, and Plistix from on line. My plan is to user the wool and KOL to make a floor to replace the supplied firebrick. The forge comes with a paint on aluminum oxide ridgidizer. Should I use KOL on the sides and top, or just the supplied ridgidizer? If I go with the KOL, how thick? I read somewhere on the forum that reducing the volume might affect burner performance. Thanks

Thanks, does ridgidizer get applied to the insulation placed around the burner where it enters the forge?

Im planning for my first propane forge. I plan to buy rather than build, probably a Devil's Forge. After reading everything I could find on the site, and rereading it after I found Lou's thoughtfull consolidation, it seems the fumed silica is the first step, followed by Matrikote and Plistix or something similar. Should i just pitch the ridgidizer that comes with the forge? Thanks