Dave F

Looks like plenty of flow -- the biggest burner in the spec burns 0.85 GPH, (=1 .8oz/min =0.8cc/sec) while the pump is capable of delivering 3 GPH to the nozzle, and the filter can do 25 GPM. I didn't see where it specifies the bypass flow, but compared to the filter's 25GPM, I don't think it's anywhere close to the filter capacity--just eyeballing it from your video, I'd guess <2GPM or less than 10%. Out on the internet somewhere I remember seeing "Nothing too strong ever broke" You should have no troubles with this tank/filter/pump setup keeping up with your burner.

From your video it looks like you have more than adequate flow--that pump looks designed to pull several feet of head through tens of feet of pipe. What are you looking for with increased flow? You could run your bypass line into a bucket and time how long it takes to pump a gallon. I'd bet a newbie s-hook that as-configured, it could drain your whole tank in less than 20 minutes.

The syphon tube I was mentioning was the draw tube in the center of the filter bowl. If there are no leaks in the system, and the lower part of the filter cartridge isn't clogged, the pump won't be able to pull any air out of the bowl once the fuel gets up to the level of the opening of the outlet tube in the bowl. I think pressure still wouldn't drive all of the air out of the filter-- once the level got the outlet tube opening, there'd still be a bubble of air trapped in the top. Increased pressure could compress it, but to eliminate the bubble you'd need to bleed the air out somewhere. With the filter above the tank, if there are leaks, you'll pump a mix of air and fuel to the extent of the leak, but the level in the bowl will remain the same. If the inlet hose is too small, vacuum will go up in the bowl and flow rate will go down, but the level will remain the same as the outlet opening. Oh wait--as the filter clogs up, (or as you increase flow rates), the level could rise on the outside of the filter material to dynamically balance the flow through the filter material.

In thinking about anvil stands, it seems like the mass of the anvil stand would only add to the effective mass of the anvil if it is solidly supporting/attached to/backing up the anvil. For instance, If you set a 66# cheap steel anvil on top of a 300# anvil, it might work like a striking plate on a 300# (or 366#) anvil, but if you put the same 66# anvil on top of a 300# box of sand, or a 300# spring contraption, it might work just like a 66# anvil. Added weight in the stand that isn't as nearly stiff as the anvil might help with stability and ringing, etc, but wouldn't necessarily add to the anvil mass at the instant of impact. Or another way to think of it--if the connection between the anvil and stand isn't good, isn't it somewhat like the delaminated face of a dead anvil? Wouldn't a big hunk of cast iron, like an old engine block, make a solid stand that added to the effective mass of the anvil?

"...the fuel filter won't fill up.. It stays at the same height.. does this mean the supply line is to small? I'm using 1/4" ID but can step up to 3/8" pretty easy. " No, it's fine -- its a volume in = volume out sort of thing, and the pump will only suck air out until the fuel gets up to the siphon tube inside the filter, then it will suck fuel. A bigger supply hose won't change the geometry of the siphon tube out of the filter.

You could estimate the volumes of the jaw, boss, and reins, and then divide by the cross sectional area of the stock to get the lengths (and the isolation lengths) For instance, the flat-jaw 3/16-5/16 has: Jaw Volume: D * C * F = 0.439in^3 Boss Volume: pi * H *(A/2)^2 = 0.138in^3 Rein Volume: L/3*(H*G + I*K + (H*G*I*K)**.5) = 1.855in^3 Total volume: 2.433in^3 ( * 0.284 lb/in3 gives 0.69lb per half-tong) The boss cross sectional area A*H=0.234in^2 is 93% of 1/2" square stock's 0.250in^2 cross section, so you can draw out the boss. For half a tong, you need 2.433/0.250=9.73", isolated into 0.439/0.250=1.76" for the jaw, 0.138/0.25=0.55" for the boss, and the 1.855/0.25=7.42 remainder for the rein. Double it up for the full tongs, and this design would weigh 1.4 lbs, and take 19-3/4" of 1/2" square stock. For the 2" capacity flat tongs, you need 13" of 1.5" square stock per 8.3# half-tong, isolating 4" for the jaw, and 2.7" for the boss.