Tooln

Here's a knife that I built that now calls it's home on a Tuna boat in NJ. It's a fillet style just made heavy duty for tuna. The blade is 1095 which is my go to material. It has what I call a modified hidden tang. The blade is sandwiched between the Red Oak handle scales and then a leather spacer is used to fill the gap. The owners boat name is etched into the blade. I also made a display stand for it. Brass pins and handle accents.

I figured it time I post some of the knives I've made. This is the latest other than being sharpened it's done. The blade is 1095 and has been glass bead blasted and then into the vibratory tumble also with glass beads. Handle scales are Locust with brass pins, black leather sheath and display for the new owner.

Mikey, Thanks no folder in my future at this time.

Here's a pic of the first knife out of the forge I built. The handle and display are black walnut, it has tri color braided leg strap, bear claw mosaic pins, bear etch and the owners initials inlaid into the sheath. Over all length is 14".

Doors were wide open, and exhaust fan running.

I used my forge today for the first time. I still don't have the doors on but I had a knife I needed to heat treat that was to large for the fire brick forge. I ended up going to a .030 tip from the .035. With all 3 burners on it didn't take long to do the heat treat. It also warmed the garage up 10 degrees in a matter of minutes. Just wanted to say thanks for all the suggestion along the way for this build.

Now you done it. 180 back to ribbon thinking.

Haven't had time to use the new forge yet but will very soon. I have a guy who wants me to make him a big bowie knife. Heat treating wouldn't have been possible in my little firebrick forge. Been thinking about the next build. I like the idea of a ribbon burner but doubt I'll go that route as I want to stay naturally aspirated.

1st page of this thread posted July 1st

I have the door but just haven't had time to finish them.

Yea it's big, next one I'll fix all the mistakes I made on this one.

Well I finally got my forge lined and cured. Here's a short video with 2 burner lit. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

I soak the blade in ferric chloride for about 15-20 minutes. I then tumble it in a container I made with stones for about 15 minutes or till I get the desired look.

Well the forge build was put on hold for a while as another build came in. I had an order for a knife and it took priority over all. Here's the finished knife. It has a white oak handle, the blade is 1095 that has been stone washed, it also has the first mosaic pin that I have ever made. The gal who order it is big time into horse's so I made a display stand from an horse shoe.

It's been a long slow process but I'm getting there. Finally got all the burner parts and fired it up for the first time last night. I only used the bell reducer for this and don't plan it for the forge. No tuning has been done yet but so far so good. Thank for all the suggestion from you guys. https://youtu.be/7AJR0o5Dy8k

I do plan to have a ball valve on each of the 3 burners. Would putting a needle valve in each be worth it?

Can't wait to fire it up. Still waiting on some burner parts. Splitting time between the forge build and my granddaughters first knife. Here's a pic fresh from heat treat and tempering.

Final layer of wool and firebrick floor installed. Burner ports relocated, ready for the kast o lite liner.

My wool came today. 2, 1" layers cut. Plan a 1" fire brick for the floor and other 1" layer of wool. Fire brick and riditizer won't be here till end of the week. I'll relocate burners after installing floor and last layer of wool.

I've been reading this to learn about Kast-O-Lite as I soon be doing my forge. My question is more about rigidizer, do you really need to do it and what are the benefits of using if you do. I asked this question to my wool supplier and was told it didn't need to be done. I do understand it will bond the fibers but if your covering with Kast-O-Lite what's the purpose. Thanks for the answers, I've been getting a lot of help information here.

I'd love to have a lathe & a milling machine. I sure do miss having the use if them at work. Just behind the air cleaner is a stainless steel bat in made years ago.

Frosty I do plan to cut an opening in the door. No real reason to open while forging unless the piece I'm working on is that large. If it becomes a problem cutting it off and welding it back on in another location won't be an issue. Thank you for your thoughts and concerns.

Well I did a little more work on the forge. Both doors cut in, hinges made and installed. Real simple door latch and handle's. So far I have $12.00 into it and that was for the handle springs, everything else is scrap I had laying around. I kind of got ahead of myself when I drilled the holes for the burners. I'm going to relocate them for better burn and efficiency. Not a problem with the old ones just weld in a patch. Material for this will come from the opening I cut into the doors. I'm not going to cut those out until I get the forge lined, this way I'll know exactly where the floor will be. Slow process now as I'm waiting for ceramic wool to line the forge. I'll update the build as it progresses. As always comments or suggestion are appreciated.

I wear a good a half face respirator when working with antler cutting, sanding or drilling. Years of safety training at work paid off.

Main use will be for making billets for knife making. Canister and stacked Damascus.