philb86

Ok, I will make some adjustments and take some more pictures to post tomorrow. Thanks Mikey.

All things I can do. I will make those changes and give it a shot. As far as flame refinement goes, am I to expect to see less orange flame at the end?

Mikey, so far what I did was shortened the nozzle to 1 1/8". Then took some pictures with at 5, 10 and 15 psi of propane, with the air intake holes wide open. I will have to see if I can get into my buddies shop to use his lathe so that I can put a taper on the nozzle. Over all length wise, the burner falls just shy of the 9 actual inside diameter by just over 1/16" of an inch. This also with the orifice being right on the most forward edge of the forward air intake slot. I tried it at 1/4 - 3/8" back from there and the flame was much less defined and concentrated. If I end up needing more length and definately the taper in the nozzle, I will have to remake the burners as well as modify my forge body the accept some large diameter pipe to make the nozzle as you are saying. Anyways, let me know how the burn looks at the 3 pressure settings. I appreciate the help and patience.

Frosty, that was more of a laugh at myself, I knew it was all in good fun. When I first started talking to DasWulf about getting set up to forge, I told him the same thing. When I look to learn a new skill, I'm an all in type of person. Most of the equipment I have in my shop is some sort of home built unit Ive built, and usually over built haha. My PID controlled heat treat oven for my knives, 2 x 72 belt grinder, etc. I am thankful though that guys like you and Mikey are patient with guys like me that ask a ton of questions. Usually more to the extent, what did I screw up and why doesnt it work, after the fact.

Mikey, if im understanding correctly, does this conceptual drawing illustrate what you are speaking of?

Mikey, I did come to realize that my nozzle was essentially far to long. I had tried positioning the orifice for the gas before and after the air intake holes and all inbetween. Nothing helped just by doing that. I did end up cutting a piece of the 1" pipe to a 2" length and slipping it into the end of nozzle to essentially shorten my nozzle to an inch, with my gas orifice positioned just past the set of intake holes closest to the burner. Voila, I now have an actual burner that works. It will definately need some fine tuning though. I will cut my nozzle to 1 1/8" per what you suggested, then I have some room to play with to fine tune. My only question to you though, by putting that extra 2" of 1" pipe to get my burner to work, once I shorten that nozzle I'm guessing I will have to add 2" to that 1" pipe to have an effective 9" of 1" pipe before my nozzle. Does that make sense? Frosty, I completely agree on that being the problem. I should have used my brain better than I did, especially being a mechanical engineer knowing how flow should work with venturi's and such. But, I jump in, and sometimes I end up in over my head initially. Eventually I figure it out if I dont, I'm glad I have guys like you and Mikey that are willing to help and have an abundance of knowledge you are willing to share. Once I get the nozzles shortened later tonight, I will try them and post some pictures of what my flame looks like. Though as I state above, I'm taking a guess that wont be enough, and I will have to add in a 2" section of the 1". But we will see. Thank you all for the help, i appreciate it!

Just a combination of ones I've seen and measurements that ive read about.

I have been looking to find some answers on what is going on with my burners, but cant seem to find a definitive answers that explains truely why when I adjust my choke to introduce more air, I burn so far out of my burner. I just cannot get a good powerful flame without it extinguishing itself by burning so far out side the my burner. As a quick run down, the main burner tube has 8- 1/2" holes for air, is 1" in diameter and 8" long, which is inserted into a 1 1/4" tube 1", and that tube is 4" long. I am using an .035 mig tip and my supply lines are 1/8" diameter pipe. I can adjust the mig tip location in relation to the air intake holes to where ever I need them if that helps. I have attached a couple pictures of the setup, maybe someone has some good insight, which I'm sure someone does, that can help me get this worked out. Maybe I need to toss the whole setup out the window. Pictures show construction, with air holes blocked, with air holes slightly open, and last but not least, when i give it to much air and the flame burns outside of burner assembly. These same conditions apply regardless of PSI of propane, tried at 5, 10 and 15 psi. Anyways, if anyone can help, it would be much appreciated.

Just finished up a new friction folder with stainless liners and some beautiful curly maple. And thanks to Daswulf, had the chance to forge something for the first time. A simple leaf.

My wife keeps me supplied with corks, although I cant say I dont help her from time to time, Im more of a rye whiskey person. In fact, I did not read that, might be a good idea for me to do so. All my 1095 is heated to 1475-1500 F and held for 10 minutes before quenching in Parks 50. Then tempered at 400 f for 2 x 2hr cycles, hard to argue with what is recommended by the manufacturing of the 1095. Aric, I would be it. Thank you for the kind words.

First post, love going through this thread and seeing what every one does. Stock removal, not forged, but finished this set of kitchen knives up to be raffled off. Talking with a local smith to get into forging, starting to gather some materials to get me started.