ShaunAnderssen

Ahhh, I apologize. My generation is showing. I just trusted Google. That's why I'm glad this forum exists instead. Wow, if it only needs to be 6" then it is grossly overlength. I would've never thought of doing this before, but if I chopped that mixing tube down, and changed to a different diameter jet, something I'm sure could be calculated, I should be getting a more effective flame characteristic?

Thanks for the response! I have done some reading on that thread, but I have to admit alot of it went over my head, you guys are very knowledgeable and I've never encountered or even thought of half of this stuff. I didn't have anything super for insulation to try yesterday, but I lined the inside with some old firebrick I found and it did make a big difference. My spring steel was heated much more evenly, and at a higher temperature, enough that I could effictively move it. But I still wasn't able to reach a nice yellow temp, even at 20 PSI. I think I know how I want to insulate it, I just need to order the materials. I know you said you didn't want to discuss the burner, but is there anything you can tell me on how to bring that closer to being a more effective burner? I'm under the assumption that you're looking for a nice sharp blue flame like a handheld propane torch, could I accomplish that with a smaller nozzle? Or shortening and/or lengthening the burner tube? I appreciate any input, and thank you for your time. Thank you. Your replies in Forges 101 have helped me realize that the burner is not what I'm supposed to be relying on to heat my work. Another question I have is on say, Forged in Fire, they're able to heat their steel to a nice bright yellow hot enough for forge welding, I've even seen them get their metal TOO hot. But when I look up the temperature output for a propane forge, it's only listed around 2,000 degrees. When I compare that to a color/temperature chart on line, this puts it around a bright orange at best. How are they achieving higher temperatures? Are they feeding it oxygen? I'm not understanding how it's getting hotter than the torch's output temperature. Again, alot of the technicals of insulation you guys discussed went over my head, I apologize if you have to repeat yourself. Appreciate any response and time you give me.

I'm new to blacksmithing, and I bought this forge link removed from Amazon for cheap because of that. I have it setup on just a standard 15lb propane tank that you would use for grilling. For smaller projects, it has worked great, I can get my material heated up fairly quickly, and at a temperature I feel is good for working and moving metal. With smaller pieces, such as an old file, rebar, or an old punch, I am able to get it heated up to a nice bright orange when set around 10psi. I would estimate around 2,000-2,200 degrees. However, I discovered some old leaf spring steel in an old shop last week, and decided to try forging a broken back seax knife with it. I can't seem to get my forge to heat it up above 1,600 degrees. It heats to a bright red to cool orange color. I feel like this is too cold, and I may definitely be wrong in that assumption. Or I may be totally overlooking a quality of this steel, as I have never worked with it. Regardless, I am still curious as to how I can get my forge to heat metal more efficiently, and at higher temperatures. Here are some things I have tried. -Covering the back opening of the forge with a layer of insulation, and firebrick. This heat the metal more evenly, as opposed to focusing all the heat directly below the burner, but didn't seem to bring the temperature of my leaf spring up very substantially. -Increasing the PSI. I have toyed with raising the pressure, which heated my material faster, but caused my tank to start icing up and losing pressure. -Testing different amounts of airflow at the intake. I have to admit I have no idea what affect this has on my forge, I have tried many different airflows, but haven't noticed a huge difference, other than the fire seems to "breathe" better with more airflow (fairly obvious). -Being patient. I've tried my hardest to just give it time, but it seems to just reach a certain temperature and just plateau. -Adjusting the height of the burner in the forge. I have read about adjusting the height of the burner, but the design only allows me about a half inch of adjustment, so I am just looking for any suggestions as to better insulate, change my burner characteristics, or anything basic that I have overlooked in my unfamiliarity with blacksmithing as a whole. Thank you all for any responses.