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I Forge Iron

John B

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Posts posted by John B

  1. Great idea, would be useful for a large cup wire wheel, not so fierce on workpiece.

    Solved a problem once with a similar thing, neighbour wanted to wire brush some old paint and anti fouling off the bottom of a boat, so I removed the spindle with the mounting arbor for the disc/wire wheel which then fitted into the chuck of the drill, and you could control the speed to what worked well without ripping off the underneath layers on the hull.

    I just knew I had kept that "useless" angle grinder for a reason.

  2. If you want to stop the bars sliding forward, i've used a bucket on each end tied together with a rope to stop the bars sliding forward, then lash the bundle down to whatever,

    If you really want to be serious about the set up, and doubt a bucket is man enough to stop being perforated, you coud use the bottom end end of an old oxy cylinder with a couple of holes drilled in to attach the rope to, or even fabricate one up,

  3. Hi, anyone out there in West Australia (Perth specifically) looking for a potential client who wants to commision some work doing.

    Enquiry came from a lady viewing the ironwork on display at the Devon County Show in the UK, currently she is touring Europe and impressed with the display, said she would seriously like some proper made ironwork, but she knew of no blacksmiths back home.

    If any one out there can help, and would like to offer their assistance, I have her email address.

  4. Another idea on air control is if you are using a bottom blast forge with air entering into the side of the ash dump area, if you have an ash dump plate that is pivoted so it crosses the base like a shear blade, as opposed to dropping down, Then by moving the plate across in small increments, then the amount of blast can be controlled as you can balance the amount of air going to the forge tuyere with amount of air being expelled from the exposed ash dump.

    Just don't have anything combustible around the base of the forge

    This is not a method I would use personally, but it is effective

  5. Garden Hoes confusion reigns the 90 degree bit turns the blade from in line to as it says, 90 degrees, I know this as a Dutch hoe, probably the same thing as a gooseneck hoe, I think I interpreted twist as bend, as I could not visualise why a twist would be needed.

    I think part of the confusion is that because smith's made tools for individuals' requirements, there are many interpretations and names for them,

    Then again there are wide blades hoes and narrow blade hoes each being used for a specific application

    Its getting to sound like Santas coming

    Hoe Hoe Hoe

    Wish I had telepathy, what you say(Write) is not always perceived as what you mean.

    Sorry for any confusion

  6. Hi Colleen, The nearest show to you would be the Royal Highland Show which is held on 19, 20, 21, 22 June, see their website and contact them for details. They used to be on the NBCC's circuit, and had a gate makeing competition, live blacksmithing alongside the farriers, and a metalwork display/competition in the crafts tent. There are very many 'smiths in Scotland, so they should be able to support it and put on a good show for the public.

    Another show that has a forging competition is the Great Yorkshire Show at Harrogate held on 8,9,10 June, Don Barker is the guy responsible for this section and would be able to tell you more, I know they have an excellent static competition, but I am not sure if they have a live competition as such.

    I would think some of the smaller Highland Shows would also appreciate your presence, why not enquire?

    Good luck with it and maybe our paths will cross one day.

  7. Hi, if you are only going to be demoing for a couple of hours with beginers then the time will fly,

    If you don't want to use tongs try demoing something like a meat fork or steak turner, you can work each end seperate, and then if you want you can put a twist in for a handle

    good luck with the demo and enjoy it

  8. Draw filing is just an initial operation in polishing, start rough and work to smooth, files should be "Run In" on some soft materials to remove their initital sharpness when new, and drawn back towards you, the effect is similar to a spokeshave on timber, small curls of metal will be removed,

    If you find the files are 'pinning' (clogging with pieces of metal) using some blackboard chalk on the files cutting face will help to prevent this. Just fill the teeth by filing the chalk down, this can easily be removed by using a file card (a short stiff wire brush like, matrix mounted on a wooden block) and brushing across the teeth. the same file card can be used to remove any 'pins' in the files' teeth, if you must remove them by some other method, use a soft probe, not an hardenend one like a scriber as this would damge the teeth and produce an uneven finish.

    I have sometimes burnished metal using a hardened polished steel.

  9. One problem I find when people discuss using sand as a flux is there are many types of sand, problems also with inclusions, where it was stored etc

    One very well experienced blacksmith I know swears by rock, crushed up obtained from a range of local hills near to his smithy

    Borax has been used for many many years, and is relatively easily available and works well.

    So try different compounds, and ff it works for you, then go with it.

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