White Nomad

The cheapest option would be to, as you said, add some more firebricks to the bottom to decrease the internal volume of the forge. But as it is, it would be ok to use for small objects to practice hammer technique and learning to control the workpiece

If I were to do this process in a crusible, like one in a propane or induction furnace, would I use borax or lime (I have both)?

I have researched bloomeries and have made a few of my own and use them at the moment to make my iron. My train of thought was that as long is there is available carbon and enough heat, the ore should reduce down, with the heat from the metal melting the slag. Would this be correct? I've also been reading a lot of research documents to do with the use of induction furnaces and different Direct Reduction Iron (DRI) processes. Also I'm unaware of what oroshigane is, but thanks for the reply.

So I'm about to make a purchase and buy my first furnace for casting, and I don't know whether to buy a propane or induction furnace. Ignoring the cost of running and purchasing either, what are the pros and cons of each? Also, would I be able to smelt or make in iron bloom in either of them? I saw a Cody's Lab video where he makes a bloom in his induction furnace and I'm wondering about how realistic that would be and how well that would work. What do you guys think would be the best option to buy, for both casting and also smelting down ores into usable metals? Thanks in advance! -edit- I forgot to add, which of the two furnaces would be best for recycling scraps and offcuts into new materials to work with and which would allow me to control the composition of my steels and other metals more?

Will do, and I'll experiment with different combinations of clays and ash mixtures and let you guys know how it goes, probably in a different thread though

I have some zeolite and bentonite as well, would that be any good?

Alright, I'll switch the lime out for sand

Yeah, I prefer to not work with sand in the mixture just because of it's (relatively) low melting point. The lime allegedly has a melting point of around 2800 celsius so I figured that It would hold the heat well. I've worked with clay before and have sort of learn the golden ration of water to mass for mixing the clay. Thanks for your help. I'll keep it in mind. - White Nomad

So I understand that in a solid fuel forge, the refractory material for the forge lining isn't as important as for a gas forge, however, I've made a mix to line my new side blast JABOD style forge and I'd like some of you guy's opinions and advise on the matter. The mix is 2 parts clay, 2 parts lime and 1 part wood ash. I'm thinking the clay and lime will form a solid and tough structure and the wood ash and lime will help to increase the temperature I can reach without starting the melt the lining. Would this work? Or should I add something else to the mix?

That really impressive. I really like the one with the holes in the blade (3rd down from the top)