Jump to content
I Forge Iron

somber crow

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by somber crow

  1. Yeah if I had a sandblaster that would definitely be what I would have done. I tried using a flap sander on something else like Frosty had suggested, and I think I might give that a go. I've ordered some rather fine grit ones to test and see how that goes. I'll report back when I've received them.
  2. Ah okay. I do have one or two lying around somewhere, but I've never used them. Their grit may be a bit high for this use, but maybe ill test it on some scrap and see how it goes.
  3. I know all that stuff works, but it would fully defeat the purpose if I over-clean the surface and remove the hammer marks. Hm we'll see then
  4. okay yeah i hadn't thought about tumbling it like that. I did find one other thread on another website saying that passivation isn't really that effective for forged pieces, as in it's not really strong enough to get through the forged surface + any iron from the anvil/hammer that gets onto the surface, etc. So just maybe electropolishing may be the way to go..
  5. Hmm. Well, I can certainly wirebrush to my best abilities and that sort of thing, but if I make a tall cup, or a necked in vase shaped piece, there is no way to reach in there with a wirebrush (if that even is good enough). Grinding it would defeat the whole purpose of making a hammered vessel. I met someone long ago who had made pieces like this, and they were clearly polished somehow, so I know there is some way to do it..
  6. Hello. I've got a few stainless steel questions, and after investigating all the other threads I could find on the matter, I'm still unclear on some things, and am looking for advice. I've began messing around with hot-raising stainless steel (304) bowls and cups and things like that, and am have quickly learned that things like buffing wheels and the like don't really do the trick for polishing these (especially with these shapes). I'm looking into setting up a small DIY electropolishing area, but just want to make sure I'm approaching this right, and so here is what I am wondering.
  7. yeah, I guess I'll just keep trying unless anyone else shows up with some ideas. It just sort of perplexes me, if you watch the first ~45 seconds of that video, you see the two parts, and the finished product, and it doesn't look like its stretched much at all. Unless finished one was a different starting size for some reason. I do have a hunch it has less to do with that initial punch, and more related to the amount of drifting needed compared to the size of the second piece.
  8. Hello, I'm trying to figure out how to make box joint pliers as the title implies. I should first note I'm trying to figure it out without much reference. There's one thread on here but it's not helpful. Anyways, I've based my forgings off an image (see below), and a video of Peter Ross doing the assembly (but not the actual forging). I *think* I have the actual forgings where they should be, but here's is my main problem. When I drift the punched piece, by the time I can squeeze its pair in, it's over stretched and the result is not clean looking and doesn't work great. I made a little s
  9. Hah, very well. Here it is. Forged a new spring with better steel. It didn't sit quite where I wanted but it works fine. You can see the tiny wedge I had to add to better lock the mounting bracket. It still has a little side to side wobble, which I will figure out tomorrow. More wedges I guess. Hopefully it'll all stay together. Thanks again to everyone for the tips.
  10. Okay, so I more or less got it working. That spring was indeed too short, so I made one out of mild as more of a temp due to my current lack of spring steel, and it sort of bent when I used the vise anyways. And I forged the missing wedge that was suggested. However, even with the wedge fit as tightly as I could, the shackle still wouldn't stay tight at all, there was still about 1/4" of a gap. I ended up driving in a second, tiny wedge next to the spring, and that seems to lock it. Just might be hard to get out, but I'll find a way. I don't think it'll effect the way the vise works, but we'll
  11. Yeah I had been thinking of remaking that spring, every image I had looked at had springs with a different curve. Shouldn't be too hard. Thank you all for the tips (and especially caotropheus for the images/video). I definitely agree I am missing a piece now. I should be able to get to it in the next day or two. I'll report back.
  12. Hello, I picked up this leg vise last week, and there's something weird about it and I can't tell if it's missing a piece. The sliding bracket has a huge gap in it, making it impossible for the spring to stay in place, or for it to be mounted right. It looks like the piece is all original steel (so it's probably not some weird modification), spare the spring which is a recently forged replacement it seems like. Wondering if anyone has any ideas what I should do. Wedge a thick piece of steel in there? Weld it? Just want to make sure there isn't something I'm overlooking here...
  13. I've made a jeweler's saw out of A36 that I work hardened after, seems to be holding out fine. I had been considering using spring steel anyways or something of that sort for hack saws though, just as some insurance essentially for keeping it strong. But it might not matter as much as I'd think based on what I'm hearing. It's awfully tempting to use mild though I must admit.
  14. Alright, maybe I'm overthinking all of this. Thanks for the advice. I updated my profile as well.
  15. Hello, I'm doing a series of tools and things and have been thinking about steel uses. For certain applications, it's pretty obvious when a tool steel would be appropriate, but for some applications I'm not sure if it's worth it, and was wondering what some other people's opinions on the matter are. Things like farm / garden tools. Hand trowels, rakes, hoes, etc. I imagine traditionally they weren't tool steel, but I don't know. How would a tool steel version compare to a work hardened mild steel variant? Same goes for tools like a compass or something similar. I imagine the tip
  • Create New...