Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by LeMarechal

  1. All the important things about unsing the forge to minimize the scale have already been said. But if it is too late to lock the stable door after the horse has bolted(hope that I´m using this aphorism in the right manner :) ), I like to give you an idea how to "rescue" these pieces... Chemical scale removement may help you: white vinigar works fine. I´m using normal 10%white vinigar from a normal food store near to my location. Stored in a plastic barrel. Leaving the pieces in there overnight is just enouh, even for heavy scale. In most cases you can wipe of the rest of the sca
  2. Made some different kinds of sethammers today. The big cubic one is for use under my treadlehammer the smaller are more for use at anvil/postvise ect. From left to right (above photography) you can see: straight sethammer with heavily rounded edges 1" square, sharp edges 1 5/8" square, sharp edges 1" straight, sharp edges 1" heeled sethammer... Now have to search some fine wood handles. Here in Germany the traditional handels for top tool are made from oak or hazelnut branches... don't know where I can find. If you walk into the next forest and cut off some branches
  3. Cool to have that sorted out these are those little detailed questions wich can become very soul-destroying for me if I do not can get an answer... Now I can sleep much better
  4. Think I found the answer Here I copied such a statement for example: Die Hämmer erhalten gewachsene Hartholz Stiele die aber nicht verkeilt werden damit bei schiefen Schlägen auf den Hammer keine Prellungen entstehen durch die die Hand verletzt werden könnte Here I tried to translate with help of Google translator: The hammers have grown hardwood handles that are not wedged, so that if the hammer is hit at an angle, there are no bruises that could injure the hand... I'm sure everyone will catch the main idea After reading this I think I mis
  5. Hi Frazer, That's my preferred method too if I make tools by myself. Wrapping around the tool not to tight and you end up with a little "loose" But now I found some old tools wich I would like to use in future. And they all have hammer eyes. The special point of these eyes is, they are parallel and not hourglass shaped as necessary for handhammers. I came across this topic, because in all German blacksmithing books this loose fit is always recommended to avoid bruising the wrists. However, they don't explain further how to realise this "loose" fit Thomas, can you
  6. Yes that's an other idea. Don't touch the swageblock, and use it for rough work. If it must be perfect then use a custom made bolster plate with nice clean rounded edges... Thanks Thomas
  7. Hi to all out there in the world, I got a question about fastening wooden handles to top tools. It is recommended to make the fit of toptool handles loose to prevent damaging the handle or hurting the blacksmiths wrist if an errant blow occurs. Ok so far the theory... But what does this mean in real life? I'm wondering how to fit the handle loose, but avoid the tool coming off the handle during using it? I find it very annoying if the tool slips off the handle every few blows. So, how do you fit loose
  8. Hi Daswulf, You're right I realy should make a photo. Comes tomorrow... Today I try to drill the block: No spirals, only grey crumbs and at the edge of the drilling no burrs. So Latticino is right, its a sort of grey cast iron. I think welding is not possible/to complicate... The only solution I could imagine is: milling off the upper 3/8"... "Sharp" is not the right term for what I want. I know the problems with sharp edges... But a little but more defined holes with slightly rounded edges would be nicer than what I have at moment...
  9. Ok... i will do some testings. Now its realy time to go to bed here. I'll post my test results Greetings
  10. Maybe, maybe The only new swageblocks you can buy here are made from "special cast iron" that's what the dealer wrote on his website... When I found the block, it had very rusty surfaces and so I tried to grind the flat sides clean. That was a very horrible job. It was like grinding hardened steel, absolutely inefficient... Can't remeber how the sparks looked like. The only information about the german swageblocks I found is this "special cast iron" - statement Sounds like something like ductile... normaly if here is something made out of cast steel, they woul
  11. Ok, will test it tomorrow. Should I use special welding rods or could I use normal mig welding to fill the craters and flakings? Greetings Sascha
  12. Hi to all out there in the wide world... My swageblock has very worn edges around its square and round holes. I'm wondering if I could fix it by welding and grinding. Does anyone here got experiences with something similar? Greetings Sascha
  13. Hi to all out there, as many people I have a shop that is nice but space is very limitted. My forge is a very compact one and it is mounted on wheels. So I can move it in the shop around when it´s not in use. The other reason for the movability is that I´m going on markets for craftdemonstrations from time to time... Because I haven´t had a chimney in my shop I have to roll the forge outside, under the free sky and let it run there. Now I like to change this. My idea is to create a chimney thru the sidewall of the shop (indicated on the photo) and to find a way to easily connect/disc
  14. Hi, Thanks to Anvil, Twigg als Frosty and all the others. Sometimes I tend to bit on such details and as long I can't find an answer it could make me crazy... So thank you all for the patience! Nit at least because English is not my mothers language and so it maybe sometimes a little bit hard to find the right words to subscribe what I mean... I'm sure that, what I'm writing, often sounds a little bit clumsy for natural english speakers:) I think we found a few very good points here so far. I will find a projekt where I will try out the tipps I got here and then I'll sho
  15. Hi twigg, yes absolutely too much for shrinking, but also much too little for assembling. :) Alignment is always one difficulty and for that a little clearance is necessary. But far more than what is needed for an interference fit... I tried to make two more photos to show a little detail I found after looking at the original photo with a magnifying glass. Sorry the poor quality of the pictures but the originals in the book are not better Above you can see a crop of one of the photos out of the first posting... can you see this round shadow where I marked it. F
  16. This is really a nice job. And a cool project. A very impressive example of what is possible if people with visions work together. Thumbs up greetings Sascha
  17. Hi Thomas, I'm totally with you. It must be something like riveting or some welding points. Shrinking is in theory possible but I can't imagine that it will work here. I made a little bit of math about changing in length by heating up a bar with a 25mm hole in it.(see the photo) If I'm not too wrong with that calculation, you can see that the diameter will only grow about less than 1/64"... This kind of measurements is a very unusually one in blacksmithing Ok let's say if your drift is well dimensionsed and you drift at the right temperature each time, e
  18. I thought too, that it must be this shrinking thing. But the upright bars have to cross the horizontal bars 5 times. Must be a very fiddly job, not?
  19. Hi to all out there, There is a book named - Alfred Habermann - Blacksmith and Designer. It is a kind of an portrait and I think a friend of him wrote this book. There is almost no information about the techniks he used for the pieces shown in this book. And there is one thing Habermann made I evertime wonder how this all helds togehter: Does anyone know this gate? Or had it seen in nature? How does Mr. Habermann prevent the parts from slipping apart? As you can see on the photos, you can´t see anything there. They are not detailed enough. What do you th
  20. Inspired of the "Steven NY"-version I built two new stands for my vises. The smaler one is for rough forging working. So it got a wider bottomplate as the higher one that is more for benchwork, filing, bending and so. The main dimensions: small one - hight without the vise 690mm - squar pillar 200/200mm - Base 700/700mm high one - hight without the vise 960 - squar pillar 200/200 - Base 500/500mm As the higher one is not only higher but has also a smaler base it tends to swing/vibrate
  21. No forging last time but constructing a new weldingtable. A few impressions: The surface choose steel wheels if all extensions are pulled out to their max. it ist about 2,5m to 1,4m (98,5" to 55") Supportarm adjustable in high holder for the mig welding gun and the dust drawer Dust drawer Greetings Sascha
  22. Hi to all out there, few days ago I tried to make a basket twist, the traditional way. Meaning, that I split squar bar from all 4 sides and then go to twist it. Using my sharp hotcut chisle... However, if you punch holes in a bar using a flat surfaced slotpunch, you will shear off the rag/slug as the final step. But using a slitting chisle, hotcut ect. meaning something that has a sharp working end, a fairly big rag will develop if you slit from the opposite side. I found it a little bit hard to deal with this rag after splitting was complete, and try to file it away.
  23. Got some toolings ready (over the last few days) An Anvil saddle, will be used for splitwork This piece was inspired by something I found in Otto Schmirlers book: My interpretation : The plate is made from C45 (similar to 4130 if I´m right). A usefull projekt with some heavy-forgings, heavy weldings, heavy heattreatment and not at least: heavy desperation This was a realy heavy day Also made some chisles and tools for my treadlehammer: And at the end of the session also did an often postponed re
  24. Dear George, I´m absolutely with you. The point of success or failure is to devide out the mass of the upper sections equally. My drawing should only be understood as a general idea... Next week I will have some time to make some experiments about this. I will show the results....
  • Create New...