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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by LeMarechal

  1. No forging last time but constructing a new weldingtable. A few impressions: The surface choose steel wheels if all extensions are pulled out to their max. it ist about 2,5m to 1,4m (98,5" to 55") Supportarm adjustable in high holder for the mig welding gun and the dust drawer Dust drawer Greetings Sascha
  2. Hi to all out there, few days ago I tried to make a basket twist, the traditional way. Meaning, that I split squar bar from all 4 sides and then go to twist it. Using my sharp hotcut chisle... However, if you punch holes in a bar using a flat surfaced slotpunch, you will shear off the rag/slug as the final step. But using a slitting chisle, hotcut ect. meaning something that has a sharp working end, a fairly big rag will develop if you slit from the opposite side. I found it a little bit hard to deal with this rag after splitting was complete, and try to file it away.
  3. Got some toolings ready (over the last few days) An Anvil saddle, will be used for splitwork This piece was inspired by something I found in Otto Schmirlers book: My interpretation : The plate is made from C45 (similar to 4130 if I´m right). A usefull projekt with some heavy-forgings, heavy weldings, heavy heattreatment and not at least: heavy desperation This was a realy heavy day Also made some chisles and tools for my treadlehammer: And at the end of the session also did an often postponed re
  4. Dear George, I´m absolutely with you. The point of success or failure is to devide out the mass of the upper sections equally. My drawing should only be understood as a general idea... Next week I will have some time to make some experiments about this. I will show the results....
  5. Thank you all for all the ideas. One method occurs to me today: Splitting and forging out like in the sketch below Drilling or punching the holes, then splitting along the lines and changing dimensions in the direction of the arrows... First the upper and lower part of the cross to get the mass out of the way to be able to reach the crossing middle... Must be good calculated as JHCC wrote :)
  6. Hi to all out there, as it is realy easy to find tons of videos on youtube about making a split cross, I wonder how to make a normal straight cross. The easy way would be, to weld (stick or Mig) the crossing parts together but what I´m searching for is how the old blacksmiths had done a simple cross? Did they split a large rectangular piece of metal from both ends up to where the crossing point will be, and then bend an draw down the splitted legs? Forgewelding??? Greetings Sascha
  7. Made another tooling for the treadlehammer. A pair of special toolholding tongs. Here a roundpunch hold by this tongs. Made that roundpunch too today. So you still can see the colours from the heatreatment ...
  8. Hi to all out there, I like to show you my new toy. It is a treadle hammer inspired by an photograph out of the book: The Smithy´s craft and tools by Otto Schmirler.He worked as artisan blacksmith in Vienna during the earlier middle of the last century. In his book he gave an immense overview over tooling and the works done with these tools. A little section is included where he showed his design of a treadlehammer, with some measurments. I spent a lot of time drawing the construction via CAD and recently I found the time to built it. Now it is ready, and here are some pictures. It
  9. Hi Thomas, hoping you survived this dentist thing...! Thank you for the tip with the armor. That may be a good scene to look around for further informations. Greetings Sascha
  10. Hi to all out there, it seems that repoussé often means : working with nonferous metals. But in earlier day´s there was much repoussé-work on iron. Take a look at all these leafwork at older buildings etc. and you know what I mean However, I can´t find books about chasing, repoussé etc with iron? Does anyone know such a book explicit for ironworks, respectively for blacksmiths? greetings Sascha
  11. Get ready one "big" project. My Treadle-hammer. By drawing and constructing this one I was inspired by some photographs in the book :" The Smithy´s Craft and Tools" - Otto Schmirler. He gave some photographs and a watercolour drawing with some basic dimensions. It took me one year (not fulltime ) of brainwork and AutoCad drawing. Now it´s ready and just works fine. sorry for the bad photo. Will take some more... Some first workpieces using the new toy: some repousséhammers (punched the hole) Making two handhammers based on the Bailey Crosspeen d
  12. I'm using vinigar of 10%. Stored in a tub of plastic. Works fine over night. Maybe that the salt in your mixture does eliminate some of the power of the vinegar? But I'm not a chemistry, so that must not be true...
  13. Hi John, Thank you very much for the description! Will try it out next time and show the results! Greetings Sascha
  14. Could anyone give a little instruction how to make these kind of twists? Thank you very much Greetings Sascha
  15. Much, much thanks to all for all the ideas... I will play a little bit with the length of the arm and its "springiness" .... if I got a moment or so. If I got further findings... I´ll be back here, with photos :)
  16. Thank you all for your responses. Like I wrote in my topic description above, this was not my first try. As you wrote I believe too, that the lenght of the clamping arm must be longer for a better function. But then it's to long for my anvil. For a better understanding here a photograph of my little anvil. It's an 160lbs anvil of what we here in germany are calling a northern germany style. You can imagine that a longer holdfast may be a little bit impractical So it may be that I have to choose an other way. Something like Thomas suggested seems to be one
  17. Hey there, this was not the first time I tried to built one of these easy holdfasts. But I wasn´t successfull. It doesn´t matter if I tried out mildstell or some toolsteel with or without heattreatment. There must be one big mistake that I´m always overlooking. Or the principle of this kind of holdfast doesn´t work with my anvil, because the two holes (pritchel/hardy) are to long because they are crossing the anvil to near at the body, if that make sense...? Here two pictures of the last two styles: I would be very pleased if anyone could enlighten me Greetin
  18. Hi Chris, do you have some example pics of items wich are leaving black marks? I would be interested in how these surfaces/coatings are looking. Greetings Sascha
  19. Hi Anvil, First of all I like to thank you for your endless patience for answering all these details. I guess you're right. I just have to get more experience with this technique particularly with such tricky items like these roses petals. As I posted earlier, with simple objects everthing works easy and fine. What I also really wanted to ask, if you clean up your pieces with alcohol, do you have any "dirt" in your cleaning rag? When I put alcohol on a new and clean piece of some rag and rubb the piece the rag still stays clean. Shouldn't I have at least a little black st
  20. HI Anvil, you're absolutely right Yesterday I found that I got a problem to hold the right temperature. On the stem of the roses everything works fine, because the material is still longer at "blackening-temperature", because of its big amount of material. The stem was matte black and not sticky as you discribed above. Oki doki so far... However the petals are from 1,5mmm sheet metal and thus they have only a little mass. It doesn't matter how hot I'm starting, it seemed that everything cools down faster than the blackening effect occurs. If I heated up the petals again , careful
  21. Hi Anvil, thank you for answering. I tried it out now and yes I got a nice dark brown/black colour. But I also got a thick glossy film on the surface, not sticky but hard like laquer. I´m sure I that I applied to much of the BLO/Turp Mix. Therefore I tried it out once more today. I attempted to wipe only thin layers on the metal and that seemed to produce better results. But this rubbing with denaturated alcohol didn´t change anything. Am I yet to hot(not me but the metal ) during I´m applying the liquid? Or is it still to thick? 1000 Questions I know Greeting
  22. Anvil, do you have some example pictures???
  23. Anvil, Ok thank you, that makes things clearer. Lacquer is a fine thing, but the most products I know become very hard after drying what makes it very possible to get spallings and scratches. Another problem what I'm seeing with lacquer is that the most lacquers need minimum rounded edges, to cover them well. On sharp edges like at the rose petals, lacquer will flow away a little, so that maybe a door for rust... ok, probably not the biggest problem for interiors:) But this scratch and spalling thing is ugly, even on clear coatings. Think the good old oil/wax- method has its adv
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