Gus Bird

Adding a bottom set, 4140 block - if the anvil is small enough... should loosen up

Nice stump!

My idea is a steel frame, 1/4 inch thick material, welded together with a base. Capped with a removable 1/4 inch plate/box, the anvil "footprint" cut-out in the plate should captivate the anvil. The anvil will contact the wood, with hold-downs threaded into the cap plate. The hold-downs should pull the anvil into the wood and steel frame.

Might not be hard enough for horseshoe nails - it's not great in the rebound department :). And then with a smaller hammer - I could use the straight pein for the anvil?

I'm trying to find a larger anvil :). Maybe just go with a new small/mid size Ridgid Peddinghaus - tired of looking.

Thanks Chris - I'll probably add/weld 2 backing nuts under the 1/4 inch cap plate once the anvil footprint is cut out and the hold-down locations are established. Those nuts will have counter bored clearance in the wood. Also maybe a thin piece of sound proofing material between the anvil and wood.

Thanks - just read it

Steel stand with wooden stump - still looking for an anvil I may just go with a new small/mid size Ridgid Peddinghaus and call it done - tired of the hunt. The idea here is the 1/4 inch steel frame/top plate (removable) with a cut-out for the anvil in the top plate. The anvil will sit on the wood, the cut-out will "capture" the anvil and utilize 2 simple hold-downs like your first post here. The hold-downs will pull the stump into the wood/steel frame and the steel will protect the wood to some degree. This stump is redwood (I'm in CA :), probably not the best for an anvil but I think the steel makes up for it. The small levelers kill any unevenness/rocking on the garage floor, or it could be bolted down (1/4 bottom plate) if I ever decide on a permanent location. Think I'll forget a tool rack and keep it clean. Maybe just a heavy tray to sit on the stump sometimes if enough room for it.