qazzarelli

I believe even good lawn mower blades are 45% at best carbon. John Deere brags about having high carbon. But they also state that they only get a hardness of 40 to 45. There again that might be good enough to play with for a sword... but a longer piece may allow for more cracks to slip in.

Thank you for the replies. Has anyone else hooked up and used a regulator from a cutting torch for a burner?

Quick question. I am switching out my fuel lines and regulator with an acetylene/propane T line and regulator. My other line hooked up to a flanged 3/8" shut off valve and the regulator is a 0-30 with no gauge just a dial for the flow. I want to use the "T" line rated for propane and acetylene and the regulator with it because it has a guage and will hook up to bigger tanks but...the fitting is slightly different and will not screw on to the shut off valve i have already running to the forge. What darn size is the acetylene/propane fuel line hook up? I am going to the hardware store tomorrow but thought maybe this is common and sometimes you ask the folks and they look at you lile you have 2 heads when you say you are Frankensteining. Or nothing fits they have in stock and in case i have to order a fitting. I am running propanethrough it by the way. Not trying to run acetylene in my forge.

Please correct me if i am wrong but right off in the video i see an issue. I am new to the forge build so take it for what it is. Right off you have a flame that looks like it is burning out side the forge. You also have one burner with a lot of cubic area and it appears only one small hot spot with no heat movement. I hope that assumption on my part is right. 2 burners for that much space maybe. My forge is 1/3 yours and i run 2 burners coming in at the 1:30 to 2 spot. Also mine is lined with kaowool, then a cheaper refractory i made and my openings are way smaller with fire brick to close off till temp builds. I can back my psi down to nearly nothing.

Jhcc, sorry. I have read but i honestly thought i put in my location. Maybe i didnt save it. But if anyone knows of a good steel retailer other than online that hits you with huge shipping or scrap metal with and unknown hx would be awesome.

I use welder clamping pliers. Got 2 different ends from tractor supply and they are longer so my had stays out the fire, my hand dont gramp or get blistered from rebar, and they adjust. They aint bad even for us poor broke folks that arent making anything worth selling yet.

I was wondering same about the rebar. Its cheaper. We have a hd and lowes, tractor supply, metal works, sabel...etc. everywhere is darn A36. Good for a dear stand i guess. If i order online i will pay as much if not more for shipping as the metal and since i am relatively new but understand enough i will destroy some good metal at first and 20 to 40 dollars shipping alone hurts.

Yeah. I was think the same thing about the hole and flame and safety. I have gone and sold a smith and wesson of mine to help fund a better burner set up. The set up i have works, gets hot, makes the steel workable but i have no knowing of how much propane i could be saving. I looked at the burners 101. I am no engineer by any means but i was working on an emergency responder budget with 2 little ones in diapers. I have decided to keeo the other 2 i made for back up, and i am gonna try the tee burner set up. I could purchase but i have to have my hand in it cause thats just me. *I separated this cause i want the experianced to at least read this for me. I have with reciept, ha ha, for two 1 inch tees, and two 8"x1" black nipples. Gonna drill a hole in the top of tee screw it on nipple and set up my mig tip with an extension piece through the top of the tee. The piece will screw into my 3/8" or so connection going to flow valve that i have already. Mig tip will be slid extremely tightly through the piece giving me my jet. Gonna sink it in roughly past the tee holes. Hope that explains but i dont have pics yet since i havent made it yet. Now should i connect the 1 inch nipple to a 1 inch floor flange or through a bigger pipe with set screws. Does it need the air pulled in around pipe or should is the flange which would cut the air at forge body? I am worried lots of heat will work up the nipple. If not floor flange then should burner make make its way into the forge level with refractory coating and kaowool or is that to far in? Should i put a bell and open burner up right before it enters forge? I have seen each way but instead of flange it is usually welded and that i dont have access to. Only issue is most dont show a good picture of nipple once it enters the whole. Giggity. P.s. i do listen i swear. I have removed the fire brick from floor. I have layered an inch and half of ceramic wool instead which gave more area in forge so i will have to see how the dimensions change my flame also. I am stuck now just waiting on mail man to bring my wool coating and another bag of refractory. Cant get it locally that i can find and the wait is killing me. Lol. Thanks again guys. Fingers crossed it gives me heat with out blowing through the propane to get hot.

Well i appreciate the input. On the possibility of being blasted i thought longer tubes allow the air and gas to mix. Would a shorter tube still allow the mix in time? Also when i popped a hole in the one pipe it seemed to give me a more of a blue sharpened flame. Is that producing better results than a fatter flame? And yes i know about the heat sink and all in the fatter bricks. It was all i could get to stand the temp for a floor at the moment and left my self some room to pull them out when i can replace with something better. Was thinking maybe kaowool on top of brick with refractory coating on that. I figured ot make the area smaller that i am heating and stop the heat from sinking into the brick. So for now i kaowooled under the brick to stop heat from penetrating and loosing out the bottom. Even if it only works for cooking pizza in the end i made it. I will thumb through the already made burners ya got and see what adjustments i can make. The firefighter/paramedic/boyscout in me just loves to adjust and see what happens anyway.

Right on thank you. I knew something was up to that extent.(i had a carburetor on a car kept running rich on emmision test and could smell fuel.) Of course with my first time forge and i smell heavy propane while it's burning made my rectal pucker just a little bit. I am a paramedic that has worked with fire and i know where just simple grill fires can turn out. Anyways i did pop a hole in one of my 10 inch pipes and tried again and it seemed to concentrate the fuel more and smell wasnt so bad but still flames coming out. I will try to oxygenate the other pipe and see what happens. I can always swap the pipe out again or use a sleeve to cover if its too much. I just heard about oxygen, scaling, and the such and perhaps went to far the other way. Can i get away with cheaper or should i say lower rated refractory material or mortar cement to close up that opening a bit? I wanted it open more for bigger projects but realize i dont need so much my flame comes out. I worry i put the second to close to opening trying to fit in in.

I have finally built my first forge. I am from georgia south of atlanta btw. I started with an old gas can. Cut an open front. Lined it with double high temp kaowool at like 1inch each layer i believe. Then i coated with castolite and laid firebrick (yes they are the thicker and not so soft brick but they have held up on a couple long burns so we will see) on the bottom. My first home made burner did well. It was a 3/4 black pipe with 1 1/4 to 3/4 reducer and mig tip pounded into the screw on cap. It works pretty well but i placed it to far back. So i rigged another one up and now it seems to far forward dang it. I had to drill a hole in the closer one to the front to get more air. It was smelling rich but that seems to have helped. Now i have blue flame kicking out the front. Any opinions on my build would be appreciated. Seriously let me have it. I need to close the front up more and i am thinking refactory cement the bricks in the front to close it up so them blue flames will quit kicking around the front side to close to my burner for my liking. The second burner is closed up hence the need for popping a hole in the pipe. I have both on a 0-30 regulator. Any mistakes you can help me with to improve would be great. Anything i am not thinking about.. I need to take a pic of it running but did think about it till after. I have 1/8 brass connecting the burners. Seriously only issue i have is closing off that front sinve burner is too close and blue flames are dancing out. Can i just refractory cement the bricks on the opening to close it up? The flames seriously scare me bouncing out around that front burner.