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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Gustav

  1. 80crv2, and cocobolo and brass.
  2. Gustav

    First bowie

    JHCC, it's the third largest province in Sweden (out of 25) at 29 330 km^2 (~11324 mi^2) but compared to most states in the US it's quite small, yes. Everything is bigger in the US, right? And Frosty, thanks for letting me know!
  3. Gustav

    First bowie

    George N.M. Wow, that's interesting. I also have ancestors that immigrated (also from Småland) around the time your grandfather did. I might have heard about a Månsson sometime, but Småland is very big. It's a big chunk of southern Sweden. Buzzkill Okay, it might be the sharpening angle. I thought "oh this is a chopper so it must have a really high angle" but I might have gone too far. I will keep that in mind!
  4. Gustav

    First bowie

    Buzzkill - Ok, what angle did you aim for?
  5. Gustav

    First bowie

    Buzzkill - It stays sharp, but that's good to know. I chopped a lot of wood when trying to get it in place for the picture and it didn't lose any sharpness. I just couldn't bring it to shaving when I sharpened it in the first place.
  6. Gustav

    First bowie

    Thomas Powers - Forgot about that. 80CrV2 quenched in canola oil and tempered at 200°C 1h x 2
  7. Hey guys! This is my first "weapon", a 35 cm long bowie. It's also the biggest knife I've made so far. The blade has a warp and the "brute de forge" might have been too much. I could probably also have ground and polished the guard and pommel a bit. They were cast in a metal I don't know the name of in English, but it's 85% Cu, 5% Sn, 5% Zn, 5% Pb. It also doesn't really shave, which is a bit lame. I went from 300-600-1200 on diamond stones and finished on a strop with green polishing paste. Go finer? Make sure you have a small angle? What do you think?
  8. Thanks guys! You might have noticed it too, but my main problems are 1. The brass spacers between the ziricote and bocote don't line up on each side of the tang. And 2. The brass could've been finished better Regarding the "stubbyness"; no offence taken!
  9. I've been blacksmithing for almost 3 years, the last of which has mostly been bladesmithing and during this time I always had in mind that I was going to give my dad a knife when he turns 50. It's my first knife I've given away, my other knives are mostly for display (to remember the mistakes each one had) except for my first kitchen knife, which I use every time I cook. They've all been pretty simple. One full-tang and the rest hidden-tang. Turns out, my dad liked the full-tang knife the most, so it had to be a full-tang. So here it is; 80CrV2 finished to 600 grit, brass, ziricote, bocot
  10. Hello! I've had a couple of cheap whetstones (120/400 and one 1000/3000) with a leather strop (with green compound) for quite some time now and I started to get tired of them curving and creating one huge muddy mess when sharpening many knives. It works, but it's a pain xxxxxxxx sometimes. So, I bought a 300/600 grit diamond sharpening stone from Dianova, but it feels like it wont be enough. When you have a newly made knife and want to create the secondary bevel from "no bevel at all", do you think the 300 grit side on that diamond stone will suffice, or will it be too fine of a grit? May
  11. Got really surprised today at how fast things went today, the forge is now completed. It's very ugly and very crude looking, the blower is attached with ducttape and the welds look like bird poop . Now I'll just have to get used to regulating the airflow, the hairblower I had on my old forge was really simple to use (OFF/half blast/full blast) and I only ever had it on full blast whilst forging. On this forge I actually use the ashdump and the clinker breaker to regulate the airflow. It enables me to fine tune, which is new to me. VID_20190804_173944.mp4
  12. Turns out you could adjust the airflow quite effectively with the ashdump and clinkerbreaker, so I just permanentley have the blower at full blast. Problem solved!
  13. Hello. The new blower I have has an internal gate to adjust the airflow, but it is affected by the air as it pushes through. The air basically opens the gate no matter how I adjust the airflow. This is probably because the hinge of the gate is extremely loose. When the lever is pushed to the left on the pictures, it's 100% open and when it's to the right it's 0%. How can I make sure the lever stays where it is regardless of the airflow? The forge I'm building is in this thread. // Gustav VID_20190804_134719.mp4
  14. Progress! The firepot isn't fastened down, it is a tiny bit loose if you try to move it since I just placed it in a rectangular hole. That's fine, right? The rectangular pipe you see welded "behind" the firepot on the frame was of some weird steel that didn't want to weld. I filed both sides down to fresh metal but it just wouldn't hold. I had it welded all the way but when I removed the clamps it just snapped outwards and all the welds disconnected . Maybe take some 20x5 mm mild steel instead? I'll figure something out.
  15. Adding wheels in some way is a good tip, thank you. However, I need to be able to lift and carry it by myself. I won't just be moving it across the floor, but also in and out of a huge oven to benefit from its chimney. I managed to cut the table today and I ended up going for 31x22". I still had plenty of space for my firepot. 27" looked good when I drew the forge in CAD and would probably be the best performing, but when I visualized it infront of me while I were at the table, it seemed too big.
  16. Just cover the sheetmetal with vinegar and wait? We actually have a sandblaster, but I didn't want to use it since I thought that sand would end up in hinges etc and mess up the firepot's mechanics. Is it safe?
  17. Hello everyone My wheel rim forge I've had since the beginning had broken down, so I began building a new and better forge. I found a 800x1000 mm (31x39")metal frame with four 900 mm (35") legs in my backyard and welded on two 4 mm pieces of (super rusty) sheet metal to make the "table". I also found a firepot with inner dimensions 220x180x40 mm (8.6 x 7 x 1.5"). It also has a clinker breaker, which was nice. All that for $100! Well worth the 2 h drive! The new fan is a $60 forgeblower I found in a Facebook group. When I plugged it in today just to try it I got really surpriced
  18. Forgot to post the update. I filled the cavity with some mig welding and it got really ugly (the welds are ugly because the welder can't use gas) but it works better now. In short, if you have to fill in material with a welder, just forge a new piece instead. It might make it usable, but it gets really ugly.
  19. Oh xxxxx I received the steel yesterday and tried forgewelding today. Didn't go very well... I used borax and it first took 6 heats to get the two pieces to stick, but when I welded the other side it broke and fell off. After that, I tried it again for about 20 heats and stopped only because my forge broke down. It wasn't because I tried forgewelding, but simply because it has been seeing its last days for quite a while. It's an ugly wheel rim forge driven by a hairblower, and the welds on one leg broke and the hairblower stopped working lol. I put that little guy to work, for sure.
  20. Hello A few months back I made my first rubiks twist bottleopener and was quite pleased with it, but I thought the lip was too thin. It survived me testing it but after my graduation this spring we had 20+ guests and it got used quite a lot so it bent backwards and cannot open any more bottles. How do I solve this? Heating it up and bending it back again will just be a temporary solution, but what if you tac weld the back of it so you add some material? Maybe just fold the tip and push the ring closer? If it was one of my normal bottleopeners I'd just make a new one, but since this i
  21. I thought the air from the fan would go up the chimney and pull the air in the super sucker with it, or atleast assist
  22. Forgot about something that can help quite a lot: There is a little tunnel right outside the ovens double doors that goes under the doors and up into the bottom of the oven. This is where a large fan (probably around 30 cm / 1' in diameter) is used to blow oxygen into the coke inside the oven when melting metals. It could prove useful since it blows air (don't know exactly how much) right up and with both doors closed, it could push quite a lot of air right up the chimney.
  23. I was unsure about the placement of the connection, so I just placed it as all other super suckers. Good to know that it works on the side/back too!
  24. Hello. I've read a lot recently about the super sucker forge hood and I've got some plans, but I need to hear from you guys before I start messing around in our shop. But first, some context: I forge in a family owned foundry (building that focuses on casting is called that, right?) that my father works in from time to time. The picture illustrates one part of the building where the oven and chimney is located. The oven has a main opening with double doors and a smaller door (marked in blue) that's never used anymore. I drew the room in Paint.net since there's so much stuff laying around
  25. Forgot about the upsetting before scarfing, thanks! I also understand what you mean by not tapering pic 3 all the way down. I've never forgewelded before but I'd like to learn, and I think this is good practice. I'll get back to you when the steel arrives and I have time to forge!
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