Gustav Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Hello everyone My wheel rim forge I've had since the beginning had broken down, so I began building a new and better forge. I found a 800x1000 mm (31x39")metal frame with four 900 mm (35") legs in my backyard and welded on two 4 mm pieces of (super rusty) sheet metal to make the "table". I also found a firepot with inner dimensions 220x180x40 mm (8.6 x 7 x 1.5"). It also has a clinker breaker, which was nice. All that for $100! Well worth the 2 h drive! The new fan is a $60 forgeblower I found in a Facebook group. When I plugged it in today just to try it I got really surpriced about how quiet they are. I never noticed how loud hairblowers (my old blower) are compared to "real" forgeblowers! Here are some pictures: Now, onto my questions: 1: The table is too heavy right now, even just as it is without firepot etc. It needs to be portable and easily movable by one person, which it won't be if I continue attaching more equipment. I read on IFI that 30x30" or 24x24" is a good size, so, since it's 39" wide and 31" long, I'm thinking about cutting it in half and welding on just the legs on what's left to make it smaller. So that it becomes 31" wide and x" long. I'm thinking that x < 31", since I don't want a square table but how "short" do you think it should be? As long as the firepot fits, how short is too short? Space for my coke is obviously important, but portability is also very important so I don't want it "longer" than necessary. 2: What should I do about the rust on both the table and firepot? Is there any other easier way of getting rid of it except going at it with a wirebrush on an anglegrinder? Happy for all answers. // Gustav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 I would cut it down to 31 inches square and add 4 locking wheels to the legs to be able to roll it where I wanted. If you don't want a square table make it 31X27 inches. As far as the rust I would use rust removal chemicals like 10% vinegar, or commercial rust remover like Evap-O-Rust or Naval Jelly. Not sure what's available in your location. If you know someone who has a sandblaster that would work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustav Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Just cover the sheetmetal with vinegar and wait? We actually have a sandblaster, but I didn't want to use it since I thought that sand would end up in hinges etc and mess up the firepot's mechanics. Is it safe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTMichaud Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 You could probably cut that down to 16 or 20 inches by the 31. That would make it really portable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stash Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 You could also rig it up with a wheelbarrow type of wheel/handle setup. Two larger wheels on the front legs and folding or removable handles on the other end. Brace the legs a bit with a few diagonals and you will easily be able to handle quite a bit of weight, and keep the table full sized. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustav Posted July 31, 2019 Author Share Posted July 31, 2019 Adding wheels in some way is a good tip, thank you. However, I need to be able to lift and carry it by myself. I won't just be moving it across the floor, but also in and out of a huge oven to benefit from its chimney. I managed to cut the table today and I ended up going for 31x22". I still had plenty of space for my firepot. 27" looked good when I drew the forge in CAD and would probably be the best performing, but when I visualized it infront of me while I were at the table, it seemed too big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustav Posted August 2, 2019 Author Share Posted August 2, 2019 Progress! The firepot isn't fastened down, it is a tiny bit loose if you try to move it since I just placed it in a rectangular hole. That's fine, right? The rectangular pipe you see welded "behind" the firepot on the frame was of some weird steel that didn't want to weld. I filed both sides down to fresh metal but it just wouldn't hold. I had it welded all the way but when I removed the clamps it just snapped outwards and all the welds disconnected . Maybe take some 20x5 mm mild steel instead? I'll figure something out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 Or drill and bolt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustav Posted August 4, 2019 Author Share Posted August 4, 2019 Got really surprised today at how fast things went today, the forge is now completed. It's very ugly and very crude looking, the blower is attached with ducttape and the welds look like bird poop . Now I'll just have to get used to regulating the airflow, the hairblower I had on my old forge was really simple to use (OFF/half blast/full blast) and I only ever had it on full blast whilst forging. On this forge I actually use the ashdump and the clinker breaker to regulate the airflow. It enables me to fine tune, which is new to me. VID_20190804_173944.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 Looks good, are you having trouble pushing new fuel into the firepot because of the lip around it? If so maybe fill the table in with bricks or clay soil. You may have to try to rust proof it if you clay it and it's going to be exposed to the weather but If it's going to be inside the clay will dry hard and it shouldn't be a problem. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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