Retiry

I haven't put them in the forge yet. I had them clamped to my bench but, I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

I lit them up and one surges like it's in the wind and the other three don't get a cone just a flame that pops out easily.

Those threads are touchy. One tiny Burr and they won't start. So I got them threaded. My fault, I didn't clean them up before trying thread the pipe in. I feel like a jerk. I'm not getting a cone on some of them.

Your right something is off.

Look in the part labeled alternative. Yes but you have to drill and tap for the 1/8 sch 80 pipe that the MIG tip screws into then screws into the T. I have a 1/8 npt tap and it is much smaller than the 1/8 pipe pipe..

Sounds like a good idea to light it up outside. Speaking of Frosty. I'm making T burners. I'm using schedule 80 for the pipe into the T. It calls for 1/8 pipe. I drilled the 5/16 tapped it with 1/8 npt. The tapped hole is too small for the sch 80 pipe. Yet I retapped with 1/8 npt mpt. And it fits into the hole in the T. Yet like Frosty says in the plans the hole in the schedule 80 is almost the correct size before machined. I'm confused.

I want to use 10" sch 40 for a forge. Not burners, ziebart is under coating very popular in the 50, 60, 70s. They used it in the 80s on sch 40 and 80 pipe I was wondering if I should remove it before making a force out of it.

I used to sell schedule 40/80 pipe but it has been a long time ago. I believe the outside is coated with ziebart nothing on the inside. I guess I'm going to fire it with the coating and see what happens. But, first I have to see if it's toxic and I believe ziebart is. I'll have to research it and start with the steel company I worked at many years ago..

I have a piece laying around, it's free. Yes its heavy but I go by use what you have first. Anyone know if I should remove the black coating?

That 40 lbs. Is for a completely different use. I'm just going to use it for a frame to hold refractory in place. It's under no stress and it doesn't get all that hot. I've seen portable air tanks used and they are thinner. They actually use coffee cans. I worked with sch40 and for this use it's plenty thick. Thanks for you input.

That is why I'm going to use an adjustable regulator 0 to 30 and a needle valve. So the flow and pressure can be varied. Because the brick insulates. Under the brick will only be one layer. Man, finding schedule 80 in an 1/8 inch nipple is a chore. I'm going to pack each wall after I soak with the rigidizer about a half inch. It's 6# so it will be as dense as 8# so it will be more of 1 1/2 ". Then coat with Plistex. The next one will be 10 inch SQ. Tube I like the length being 14". I got another question; I'm thinking about going to 10 " dia. Schedule 40 pipe. There is a coating on it, does that have to be removed? I believe it to be ziebart.

Well I have actually bought the parts and have changed to a final design. Since I have found and downloaded the plans for Frostys T burner. I like the simplistic design. As for the forge, I'm using 8x8 tubing with 3/16 walls and 14" long. 11/2 pipe to mount burner. Refractory, 2 layers of 1 in 8# ends will be covered except the opening being even with the brick on the bottom and in the back the top of the inside opening will be covered. The back will be attached, the front will have offset hinges. I'm using rigidizer coated with Plistex. The brick will have one layer under it.. Last week I bought an anvil for 275.00 100 pounder. Turns out it weighs 160 and it's the first run of the Fisher Eagle 1843. The mounts gave it away when I looked it up in Anvils in American. The patent was awarded in 1844. Mine has no number. I was surprised there's no ring, just a thud but a great rebound. 2/3 and about 6 bounces. The top half in the back will be covered.

Will do.

I'm doing a venturi design from an artist in Alabama. Mostly all stainless. It uses .040 orfice but it's very hot and can be used to melt or turned down for bending. It uses a 0-30psi regulator. I've gone through 3 interations this is the one I'm going with. And it uses Tig welding and I need to practice. I got to justify my purchase.

The truck was my phone's contribution. I like the Ron Riel design so I'm going to switch to a brass plug and drill it to .030. I'm going to use stainless for the nozzle end. 3/4" pipe. I chose this design because I have seen the build start to finish. The design has less machining involved, not that I'm afraid of it , I just want to get hammering. Christmas is coming quick.

I definitely looks like it.

I can't find your article about the how to for the Truck burner.

Thanks to the three of you Bineman, Thomas and Mr. Latticino for your replies they all of course make sense. And I've learned one xxxx of a lot. I decided to use a portable air tank only 14" long 3 inch hole in the back 5 in the front line it with ceramic blanket two layers of 1 inch and seal it with kiln refractory cement with a 1 1/4 inch insulating brick for the surface. With the two inches of blanket times two, it leaves me with 10 inches less the space taken up with the cement layer front and back. So 9 1/2" long and the open area inside will be 6 1/2 inches in diameter. I'm going to use a .035 MIG tip. I'm going to drill 4 -1/4 inch holes and use a slider for fine adjustment. Any thoughts? I went to buy an anvil yesterday in Ohio. Paid 275.00 woke this morning to the FedEx guys knock. It's my copy of Anvils in America (signed copy ) ooooohhh. Looked up the anvil, it's an 1843 "Eagle" by Fisher. Jackpot first time out. I know it's a 1843 because it says patent pending it was awarded the next year. So it's a first run. When I get help getting it out of the trunk I'll post a picture.

The reason for the length is for versatility, making tongs . Mostly I ll be learning to do knives, using it a couple times a week over time.

Whats the best type regulator adjustable or non. Also I'm going for an 18" brick forge by 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 opening, would I need one or two burners.

I've been looking at the Harbor Freight weed torch. You know for burning weeds, grass in a metal fencing etc. They are infinitly adjustable and if you squeeze the lever the flame gets super hot. The nozzle is 2" like most forge nozzles and it comes with a hose and regulator. The cost is $19.95 the one with a built in lighter (like on a grill) is $29.95. And o'course I'm suggesting this idea as a first burner for a brick forge to get you started. Any thoughts on this.

Anyone have an idea as to brand??

Hi guys new here. Tonight I found three anvils for sale and a pair of tongs. One is 142lbs it has a laminated surface about 1/2 inch thick. Two is 197lbs. It says 200 on one side and has a 6 digit number on the other side. 1 inch handy and a Pritchard hole. Three is 285 lbs for markings there is only one. It is an oval on the side at the waist with the number 15103 stamped or ingraved into the oval. The oval is raised. Your thoughts on price. Brands. The guy wants 700.00 for all three and a pair of tongs. The pics arein order 3-2-1