Wesley Chambers

yea could just use a crown bolt and nuts, rub a lil wax on the threads maybe
simplified design:

why not just drill a hole threw a standard creaser say 3/8" and slide a round bar bent at 90 deg threw it use a set screw to hold it. This would make a very simple gauge no milling of welding required.

I like this idea a lot, Ill be the first to admit I'll over engineer a project if given half a chance, maybe use all thread to make the adjustment easier, I like to have the wide plate to reference the parallel, if the whole face of the plate is in contact with the piece Im good, if its just a round rod my hand could waver left or right out of alignment

I couldnt find any pics of the twist so I ran out to the backyard and forged one, I always heard it called a ribbon twist, whats everyone else calling this type of fullered twist?




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lS5NBs-ioU

This took almost 20 min to do( getting the forge heated too )
mark, pre-crease, creasing heat, stop
repeat on each side.
I thought that I could skip this pattern with the attachment and just get a good yellow heat and run with it~ I duno just a thought if I ever have the scrap 1/2 and 1/4 inch Ill tack one together see how it goes

With a little practice you can use your fingers as edge guides for marking things like that. They are generally handy, very flexible/adaptable, can be used with all sorts of markers (awls, pencils, felt markers, etc). With a little squeeze at times they can guide to very subtle tapers (perhaps to maintain proper proportions as a blade tapers, for example). I have usually found that eye and hand are more sensitive for such things than measuring devices... especially on curved and tapered work.

I use this method quite often with woodworking, and tapers are great but what I was after was parallel lines

Maybe my terms here have confused some, by depth I meant how coarse or fine into the piece Im going not how far down into it Im driving the fuller

Brent Finnigan over at Fogg's makes these, and sells them, too:

http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h151/BrentFinnigan/Custom%20tooling%20I%20build/?action=view&current=groover10-1.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/user/BrentRF#p/u/35/DLaXnk5131o

Here's a simple version Tai Goo made:

http://primitivepoint.blogspot.com/2008/12/tais-fuller-tool.html

Oh, and here's one by Colonel Hrisoulas:

Think you missed the idea of my tool, the point was to not have to mark it with a scribe but to hook it right on the fuller, skip marking step entirely.


Bob- Im a bit lost more detail?

Southshoresmith- when I fuller horseshoes I just use my calipers or an open faced wrench of the size I need, no need for a silver pencil just scraping lightly on the black heat leaves a line that is easily followed


My goal for this type of tool was to have something I can quickly set to a depth, say .25" from the edge of say a 1.5" bar that is 4' long, I dont want to scribe 4' of metal, just heat as much of it as I can grab my fuller with gauge and run a nice straight even line parallel with the edge, make a quarter turn and repeat and in no time at all I have all four sides creased. Sure I could eyeball or mark all 4 side of the stock each time I want to move to the next face but it seems this can save me a ton of time.

The guide could be modified to clamp onto wooden handles as well as steel welded like some I use.

Was thinking of forging a scribe fuller today, Thats the only name I know them by:
The short side does the creasing and the long glides the side of your workpiece.


But I didn't like the idea of needed a new tool for each new depth I wanted for different stock. I decided to build an adjustable depth guide and these are the plans. If a tool like this is already made I haven't seen one. Thoughts?

I still believe my beard acts like a radiator when Im sweating and helps keep me cool. Though it does have that horrible side effect of soaking up the smells of the day, it can take quite a scrubbing to get the smell of burnt hoof off my face~

If your talking about the three curved pieces they are from railroad track, if I remember right they are used almost like clamps or tie-downs, used a few of them myself free .5 x 1.5 if I remember right. I only ever found them in old piles after a run of track ties were reset.

kinda out does my heat the lighter flint till red then throw trick.. but only by a little!

I wanna see that place in the morning.

Sorry for you loss, I hope someone that needs these tools finds you~

For those of us that like to see large metal take a beating, the first section has one heck of a large punch!

Wesley, are you able to use the transformer that came with the treadmill so you can use it with a more common voltage?

I think so, the cord I have with it is a take down to a 20amp, but the roommates an electrician I just hold things up and wait for a response lol

I must say after the past few days of actual draw filing properly Im upset no one ever taught me the technique before, but I guess as the age of hand tools wains its understandable.

Love that stuff, use it a lot for horse mats, I think it would be nice to have, help deaden the sound a bit

Yea that's better

And its horn looks like poopie for lack of a better word~

Thanks for the info Bob, I just spent the last hour fighting everything off of its frame, had to weigh around 200lb with the other motor,elevator legs & gearboxes, secondary supports and frame work. Not too bad to manage but I almost lost a toe yesterday and didnt want to tempt fate twice, shoes or no!

Beautiful as expected

And it may yet become one heh, my main questions are what are the pros/cons of it being DC, will 3hp for a hammer be a waste when a 1 or 2 will work, will it hurt anything to tone down the rpm, I know what brushes ? this is all out of my realm, reading up on brushless dc motors on wiki at the moment.

Welcome!

Lucky man! congrats

Just scored this old hospital treadmill, this is her heart:


Will it be acceptable for a hammer of some sort? I am void of any motor/hp/rpm knowledge of any kind. I was thinking it would be neat to have the ability to turn the power/rpm of a hammer up or down with the control panel from the treadmill though it might not even be necessary.

4000 RPM
3 Hp
Brushless DC motor
Thoughts of any kind? what can/could I do with is wonderful new toy!