andreas

Are you able to forge weld with that set up?

Sprucing up my propane gasser for some winter work, and I am recoating with ITC-100. Before this, though, I would like to remove the burners and make sure they are still working well. The burners are the Reil EZ burners and have worked well in the past. When I built them about 6 years ago, I had trouble flaring the nozzles, and I know the flare is not the 1/8th inch over the last 1 1/2 inch as specified on Ron Reils website. Question is, is there an easy way of getting a nice flare on the nozzles?

Tucker's Pottery Supplies, 15 West Pearce Street Unit #7 Richmond Hill, Ontario Canada L4B 1H6 http://www.tuckerspottery.com ITC 100 for $55.00 CAN per pint. Look under "kiln repair" in the Kilns section.

Actually, After alot of searching, I found a place about an hour away that sells the stuff for $55 CAN. Thanks though.

Any Ontario residents in the crowd know where I can purchase ITC 100 in Southern Ontario? Pottery Supply House in Oakville has it, but at $130 a litre, I thought I would look elsewhere. PSH used to sell it by the half litre, but not anymore. I'm just touching up the insides of my gasser and a whole litre is way too much.

What's the "ball bearing bounce" test ? How big of a bearing? How high should it bounce?

Found this a couple of weeks ago at a local farrier supply. Used but in really good condition. Picture is from the internet, but it is the exact same anvil. Fella wants $350 CDN, I think that's a bit high. Anyone have one of these? It was apparently made in Sweden for Centaur by Kohlswa. centaur anvil.bmp

I'm thinking about rosettes, candle cups and the like. I'm beginning to think these presses may be too big for my little shop. I may look at a hydraulic press instead. Slower, I know, but will take up less space in the shop.

Here's the link: (905) 771-8678 or e-mail us at sales@cowanmachinery.com

Thanks everyone, I guess I have a lot to consider. These are the only presses I have found within a reasonable distance from where I live, and I may be able to get them for a descent price. My question is, knowing that the threads on these presses are not that "fast", will they still exert the force needed for some cold work on say 1/4" mild steel?

They also have this other press. It looked to be in rougher shape, same price. The thread looks different on this one. What do you think?

I found this flypress at a local used machinery place. It's a Brown & Boggs. The sales guy says this thing weighs 2000-2500 lbs. Personally, just looking at the picture, I don't think it could possibly weigh that much. They're asking $950, which is apparently negotiable. Anyone familiar with this press? If it's as big as they say it is, it's way to big for my shop.

I am rebuilding the little forge in the pictures. Basically scrapping everything but the blower and rebuilding to roughly the same dimensions, except square and a little taller. If you look in the other picture of my shop, I want to put the forge in the area under then window, build a hood over it and run the vent/chimney pipe out the window. My question is, will the hood still draw well enough with two 90 degree bends in it (to get the vent outside)? Anyone else have a similar setup, what did you do?

Like Chris said, the customer with the $$ has the last word. In this case the client wants the textured look as I guess that is their idea as to what looks "medieval". There is also a time element involved, and beating flat bar out of round stock just doesn't fit in with the time restraints. Also, the case will have tempered glass sides and the flat bar will make fabricating and fitting up a lot easier for me anyway. I think I'll throw in some rivets, that may help with the look the client wants.

Thank you all for the suggestions!! The case I have been asked to make is going to be about 4ft long by 2ft high and 2 feet deep, about 24 linear feet for the frame, so I am liking Woody's scalloping of the flat bar, seems it will be faster and more in line with my forging ability. I also like Mike's idea about grinding lines into an old hammer for that "vine" effect. Great ideas!!! Andreas

Greetings all!! First posting here. I have been asked to build a display case for a replica knights helmet and broadsword. The requirement is that the metal look "medieval", by that I guess they mean really old and not made by modern machinery. I had planned on using 1 1/2 x 1/4 flat bar for the frame of the case and just hammering it with a ball pien to distress it a little and then riveting to put it all together. Are there any suggestions? Cheers!! Andreas Guelph, Ontario Canada

Hello All!! My name is Andreas and I live in Guelph Ontario. I have been interested in smithing for many years, my original interest was bladesmithing, but that has grown into all aspects of the hobby, along with welding/ fabricating. I have a modest little shop (my wonderful wife let me have the garage in our house). I have a small hand cranked riveting forge (I think) and a gas forge I built following instructions from Ron Reils site. I will try to post some pictures in the Gallery.