MattR

So with all the fun I'm having, designing and fabricating. The main part is done. This thing gets hot fast and stays hot. I can't complain so far. This is running at 2.5psi.

It was all in good fun, I wouldn't take the time out of my day to joke with people I didn't respect in this community. Well it time to get up and get my forge built. I've got the burn fever.

You both have great ideas, I really appreciate the suggestions, and will entertain them. Thanks for not giving me any Mikey burn and frost bite along the way. I too am hard on myself. Can you imagine if it wasn't for people who are detail oriented and have the drive like us in this world. I hold a mech. degree, however I work in the service industry. To many engineers build amazing stuff without service in mind, that is why I made this burner so easy to access and adjust everything. So even my air intake cuts that aren't straight kill me too show the shotty work i did there. Ha ha

So I couldn't resist ribbing back out and swapping out the mig tip I had 23 and 25's, dropped the 25 in and walla much nicer, you judge. So I have completely missed any talking about 2" bell reducers. Just looked on the web wow can we say large. My machined out one measured 1.9375". If you think i need to open up my air flow, I will. 6psi

That was the before picture setup. I removed the choke. The dragons was rising with that in it. I can open up the ports and machine the lip out of the 1 1/2" bell reducer, ther is agood 3/16 of a flat lip. This is the new setup. When I took that picture it was 2 a.m. when I went back out there this morning I realized I had turned up my regulator to 10 psi for that picture that I posted sorry about that. The pipe body does slide all the way through so it lines up with taper in the nozzle. Oh yeah no need to bust on the white tape I already pulled apart all the other fittings. I bought it with the supplies and the person didn't put the yellow tape in the bag that I bought so I had to go buy another one. That's the only fitting i haven't dealt with yet.

Here's my Hay Budden. 230lbs of pure Americana.

So with all my due diligence and all the research and I've done on this forum along with the Internet for flame tuning. I now can want to ask for experience on my burner. I still think I might be running a little lean seems like it's a little too white for the blue flame. Yellow DRAGON BREATH had been dialed back. It is a 3/4" with a 1.5" DOM tubing machined to slide and set screw into position on the main body. It has 1:12" machined into the nozzle. Also set @ 5 psi. I got rid of the crap nozzle in the second picture.

I meant user feedback. I bought it without reading about it, something I normally wouldn't do. I'm not normally a impulse buyer. I've talked to the company, and didn't gather that much more from what I read already on their site. They did tell me to wet the blanket down first, and I don't need rigidizer first. I'll guess time will tell when I finally finish it and fire it.

I'll definitely look into that. Thanks

I agree completely I'll post a video or pictures hopefully by the end of the weekend with a running two 3/4" burner forge. Here is my burner setup that I made. The three 8 32 screws are removable which allow the complete burner assembly to be extracted to exchange tips if need be. Since the photo I pulled out the adjustable baffle plate it is not needed it burns clean from cracking open the regulator on up to 30 PSI perfectly. I also shaved down the vortex plate to be super thin and sharp to allow the cleanest air flow. The nozzle is stainless and the threads are also machine out just like the intake

Lucky, I screwed up when i wrote that. The topcoat m is just a ceramic blanket coating in my forge design. He said its main job is to resist break down from alkali. I have a lining around the forge made up of two layers of 1" 2800° blanket. The stone is just a shelf for setting the metal on. I bought two cheap thin firebricks to set underneath in the front and back for the carbide stone on, so air can flow underneath. He said the carbide is high conductivity and can retain heat and heat up quick so when you put your metal back in on it, it will help heat it up a lot faster. I guess this in return keeps a higher furnace temp when opening it up. I just wonder why i haven't seen these talked about. This refractory owned family business i went to rebuilds the large plants furnaces in NY.

So I keep reading about the same ceramic blanket coatings everyone always suggests. However, no matter the amount of research I do I just can't find any information regarding Unifrax topcoat M. Maybe someone here has experience how good this material might be. I went to a nice refractory supplier a few days ago, and the owner helped me pick out the materials. Also looking at all the different options for a decent base to prop on the bottom. Choosing between soft porous bricks, El cheapo fire bricks and silicone carbide. I went with the carbide stone. He told me firebricks have a thermal conductivity of about 10 percent. Silicone carbide is around 70%, which will hold heat and heat up much faster, in return bring the material to working temp quicker. Sorry for the long post. If you made it this far thanks. Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Matt

So I keep reading about the same ceramic blanket coatings everyone always suggests. However, no matter the amount about of research I do I just can't find any information regarding the material i just picked up. Maybe dinnertime here can enlighten me about how good this material might be. Unifrax Topcoat M. I went to a nice refractory supplier a few days ago, and the owner helped me pick out the materials. Also looking at all the different options for a decent base to prop on the bottom. Choosing between soft porous bricks, El cheapo fire bricks and the one I chose, silicone carbide. I hope it was a decent choice. He told me shift firebrick have a thermal conductivity of about 10 percent. Silicone carbide is about a 70%. Sorry for the long post. If you made it this far thanks. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.